Alpinesavvy

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Color code your runners

This might be a well-known trick more experienced climbers, but it's still worth mentioning for newer folks - Try to coordinate the length and color of your runners. Doing this allows you to give a quick glance to your harness and grab the proper length of runner that you need.

For example, try to make all of your single (2 feet or 60 cm) runners the same color, say yellow, and all of your double (4 foot or 120 cm) runners a different color, say blue.

A general rule of thumb for a moderately meandering alpine pitch is to have about a 4 to 1 ratio of single slings to double slings. So, maybe eight single runners and two double runners. Of course, the length of the pitch and how much it wanders around has a bearing what you carry.

(And, keep in mind you can shorten a double or connect two singles together to extend them if needed.)

Finally, sport climbing quickdraws are not used so much in alpine climbing, so you might want to save those for the bolted routes.

One double (4 foot) runner in blue, and four single (2 foot) runners in yellow.

Start with this “4:1” short to long sling ratio and you should be good for most routes.