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What's in my pack: Rainier gear by Mark Smiley

John Godino

This gear list is a free excerpt / preview from Mark's new online course, “The Ultimate Guide to Modern Alpinism”. I haven’t taken it, but I have taken a couple of his other online courses, and they were excellent. Check out all of Mark's offerings at mtnsense.com.

Emmons Glacier, Mt Rainier. Photo by Vaqas Malik

There’s nothing a gearhead likes more than a detailed packing list from an expert climber. Here’s what IFMGA Certified Guide Mark Smiley likes to pack for a two day Mt. Rainier trip up one of the standard routes (Emmons or Disappointment Cleaver). (I've climbed Rainier several times and sure wish I had a few things on this list.)

Of course you don't have to bring everything listed, but it's a pretty good starting point.

Here's a link to the original “course preview” article Mark posted for free on his website, where he names some specific brands that he likes and goes into a bit more detail.

Clothes

  • Wool t-shirt

  • Sun hoodie

  • Thin wind shell

  • Light puffy

  • Big puffy

  • Waterproof shell jacket

  • Buff

  • Hat with visor for sun protection

  • Thin gloves for hot day on glaciers

  • Showa Temres gloves for cold and wet

  • Second pair of cold-weather gloves (if forecast is for nastiness)

  • Softshell pants

  • Waterproof pants

  • Socks

  • Boots (Single layer, with integral gaiter)

Climb gear

  • Helmet

  • Sunglasses

  • Goggles

  • Headlamp (400 lumen minimum)

  • Lightweight harness (Edelrid Prisma Guide)

  • Steel crampons (Mark likes the CAMP Skimo Pure Nanotech crampons, very lightweight)

  • Ice Axe (50 to 70 cm)

  • Trekking poles

  • One mid clip picket

  • One ice screw (aluminum, 16 or 19 cm)

  • Petzl Nano Traxion progress capture pulley

  • Petzl Tibloc

  • Four lightweight carabiners

  • Three locking carabiners

  • Two 120 cm Dyneema slings (or cordelette)

  • Rope (50 or 60 meters, 8.4 mm dry treated)

  • Avalanche transceiver

  • Shovel

  • Avalanche probe

Pack and camping gear

  • 55 liter pack

  • 2 liter water bag

  • Steripen water purifier

  • Lip balm (several tubes)

  • Sunscreen (small tube or stick)

  • Satellite communication device

  • Backcountry navigation app, with GPX file of route loaded onto phone

  • First aid kit

  • Sleeping bag (down, 20 degrees)

  • Compression stuff sack

  • ThermaRest NeoAir XLite Sleeping Pad

  • Compact pillow

  • Two person mountaineering tent

  • Earplugs

  • Canister stove (MSR Reactor or Windburner, not Jetboil)

  • One freeze dried dinner and one breakfast

  • Spoon

  • Lunch food, whatever works for you