You’re heading up Mt. Hood to try Leuthold Couloir in March. Your team is setting a good pace on the approach, and you’re sweating a fair bit, even after you strip down to your base layers and open a few zippers.

At Illumination Saddle where you stop for a break and to rope up, you are suddenly chilled by the wind that often appears at passes, even though you’ve put on your puffy belay jacket and hat.  That damp first layer seems to suck the warmth right out of you.

Solution:  Bring two shirts, one lightweight and one mid-heavyweight.  Tackle the fast-paced approach hike in a lighter shirt.  When you start the technical climbing (or arrive at base camp) which usually means moving more slowly, remove the sweaty shirt and replace it with a dry, thicker synthetic top.

The few seconds of discomfort from exposing your upper body to the elements are outweighed by the immediate warmth, comfort and psychological boost that comes from a fresh, warm shirt.  If you take the rest of the climb at a more modest pace, the second shirt should stay dry.