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How to extend a quickdraw

If you're on some ultra-steep or reachy sport route that requires extended quickdraws, here are some ways to do it. And a couple of ways not to.

In addition to connecting quickdraws like this, you could also use a 60 or 120 cm sling.

Two good methods to extend a quickdraw:

  • Probably the easiest: remove the top carabiner from a second draw, and then clip the dog bone into the bottom of the first draw (left).

  • A more secure version: replace the carabiner with a quick link or locking carabiner (right).


Two not-great ways to extend a quickdraw:

  • Chaining together two non-locking carabiners is a no no. A fall could twist the carabiners together and cause them to unclip (left). It is okay to clip the bottom carabiner for a rest, and then clip the rope through the top draw when you continue climbing.

  • The quickdraws are extended correctly, but the rope is clipped to the wrong place. A fall with the rope clipped like this might damage the dogbone of the lower quickdraw (right)