MA in the real world
In a previous post, I did a little testing of 1:1 pulls redirected through various devices. Now, I wanted to see how things worked with some actual mechanical advantage.
I tested various rigs of 3:1, 2:1 and 2:1 “far end haul” systems.
Here’s what I used, and here’s what I found.
Components:
Anchor about head height
10 pound barbell weight
Two reasonable quality rescue pulleys
9 mm dynamic climbing rope
Sterling hollow block or WIld Country Ropeman as a prusik
Digital spring scale
Various carabiners (Petzl Attache rounded stock, Black Diamond Neutrino and DMM Revolver)
I tied the end of the rope directly through the barbell weight for the 3:1, ran it up through the anchor, and set up pulls using different gear. For the 2:1 tests, I ran a short runner through the barbell plate and clipped the rope to that.
I did several slow, steady, pulls on the rope and recorded the most common number from the scale.
This is hardly a scientific test by any means, but I think I can give a pretty good idea of relative efficiencies. Try to replicate this yourself. All the extra gear you need is a 10 lb weight and a spring scale, about $11 on Amazon.
My testing set up looked like this:
What do we see here?
2 pulleys in a 3:1 gives the most efficiency, but it’s still basically a 2:1 in the real world.
If you have just 1 pulley, put it on the load strand of a 3:1 to get the most efficiency.
Not much difference between round stock and non-round stock carabiners, use what you have.
A 2:1 with a pulley required the same pulling force as a 3:1 with carabiners. You may want to use the 2:1, because you get more lift with your pulling strokes.
Use a pulley with a far end haul - using carabiners gives a less than 1:1 mechanical advantage.