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“What's the best way to connect a tether to my harness?” Turns out there’s not one best answer. While some people feel strongly you should always use your tie in points, the truth is that the “best” method depends on a few different factors. Let's take a closer look.
Here are detailed tips to keep your phone running longer in the backcountry: changing some phone settings, navigation tricks, and cold-weather protection. Yes, your phone can last for many days on one charge!
A summary of various tricks and tips to aid climb more efficiently, also known as “just about everything I wish I knew when I started aid climbing”. These tips may take years off your learning curve.
Common practice in many parts of Europe, belaying a leader directly from an anchor rather than your harness is a new idea for many Americans. This article covers an overview of the technique, pros and cons, an FAQ, photos of how to set it up, and print / video resources for further study.
While vertically oriented chain anchors are still uncommon in many areas, they offer a few advantages over horizontal anchors. Learn some of the benefits of vertical anchors, and check out some ways to rig them for top rope, multi pitch, and rappel.
The modern approach to crevasse rescue is to use a separate, unweighted rescue rope strand to pull out your unfortunate partner. Typically, this is done with a 2:1 “drop loop” system. Here's a variation with some improvements: dropping down one END of the rope, and hauling with a 3:1 mechanical advantage.
Do you need to clip a “project” quickdraw that’s already on a bolt? If you have a long stick and know how to tie this crafty double slipknot, it’s easy. Check out the article and video to learn how.
The so-called “American Death Triangle” admittedly is a catchy name, is not best practice for anchor rigging . . . and is not as bad as it’s reputation. Learn about why it's stronger than you might think, and the pros and cons of related rigging methods.
Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see lots of examples here.
The German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (VDBS) published a short PDF file of recommended anchor building practices. Many of them are strikingly different than those used in many parts of the world. Let’s learn some new anchor setups!
There are some well-meaning but perhaps misinformed ideas about acceptable anchor building practices. Let's have a close look at an anchor, made by an IFMGA Guide, that might cause you to question some of your assumptions.
Beginning climbers often hear a confusing mish-mash of different advice and rules. Read this Tip to discern what's a definitive rule, and what’s more personal preference.
You’ve probably wondered how strong that piece of gear actually is, especially compared to others in the same category. Can you really rappel safely off that micro stopper? How much trust should I put in that single bolt? Most all of that gets answered, right here.
Need to contact 911 when you're in the backcountry? Better have a way to tell them where you are. Learn several ways to get your latitude longitude coordinates from your phone.
It's a rare opportunity to hear from a world class expert on what specifically they bring for an overnight alpine climb. Get it straight from Steve House. (You’ll never believe what he fits in a 30 liter pack!)