What's in my pack: Rainier gear by Mark Smiley
This gear list is a free excerpt / preview from Mark's new online course, “The Ultimate Guide to Modern Alpinism”. I haven’t taken it, but I have taken a couple of his other online courses, and they were excellent. Check out all of Mark's offerings at mtnsense.com.
There’s nothing a gearhead likes more than a detailed packing list from an expert climber. Here’s what IFMGA Certified Guide Mark Smiley likes to pack for a two day Mt. Rainier trip up one of the standard routes (Emmons or Disappointment Cleaver). (I've climbed Rainier several times and sure wish I had a few things on this list.)
Of course you don't have to bring everything listed, but it's a pretty good starting point.
Here's a link to the original “course preview” article Mark posted for free on his website, where he names some specific brands that he likes and goes into a bit more detail.
Clothes
Wool t-shirt
Sun hoodie
Thin wind shell
Light puffy
Big puffy
Waterproof shell jacket
Buff
Hat with visor for sun protection
Thin gloves for hot day on glaciers
Showa Temres gloves for cold and wet
Second pair of cold-weather gloves (if forecast is for nastiness)
Softshell pants
Waterproof pants
Socks
Boots (Single layer, with integral gaiter)
Climb gear
Helmet
Sunglasses
Goggles
Headlamp (400 lumen minimum)
Lightweight harness (Edelrid Prisma Guide)
Steel crampons (Mark likes the CAMP Skimo Pure Nanotech crampons, very lightweight)
Ice Axe (50 to 70 cm)
Trekking poles
One mid clip picket
One ice screw (aluminum, 16 or 19 cm)
Petzl Nano Traxion progress capture pulley
Petzl Tibloc
Four lightweight carabiners
Three locking carabiners
Two 120 cm Dyneema slings (or cordelette)
Rope (50 or 60 meters, 8.4 mm dry treated)
Avalanche transceiver
Shovel
Avalanche probe
Pack and camping gear
55 liter pack
2 liter water bag
Steripen water purifier
Lip balm (several tubes)
Sunscreen (small tube or stick)
Satellite communication device
Backcountry navigation app, with GPX file of route loaded onto phone
First aid kit
Sleeping bag (down, 20 degrees)
Compression stuff sack
ThermaRest NeoAir XLite Sleeping Pad
Compact pillow
Two person mountaineering tent
Earplugs
Canister stove (MSR Reactor or Windburner, not Jetboil)
One freeze dried dinner and one breakfast
Spoon
Lunch food, whatever works for you