Big wall - what's the leader’s first tasks at the anchor?
This tip is from big wall expert Mark Hudon. See more great tips and El Cap route photos at his website, hudonpanos.com
Once the leader arrives at the anchor after a big wall lead, they have one main task: Get your second off of the anchor below you as quickly as possible, and THEN get comfortable. But the second can't do much until the leader does 3 things:
Leader's main tasks:
Build a simple strong anchor as quickly as possible
Fix the lead rope for your second
Set up your haul system and pull a few strokes to get the haul bags off the anchor
Do these in order. (If communication is difficult because of wind, a long pitch, or the route going out of sight, when the second sees the haul bags start to move, they automatically know that the lead rope is already fixed for them.)
Only after all this happens can the second start breaking down THEIR anchor and start cleaning.
After these 3 tasks are done, only THEN can the leader take a break!
When you're big wall leading, resist the temptation to kick back, take pictures, relax, etc. right when you get to the anchor; you still have work to do.
Side note: On a shorter pitch, it can be good practice for the leader to pull up the lead rope until it comes tight on the second before fixing. Doing this means the second does not have to carry the entire weight of the rope hanging below them as they are cleaning, which can save them quite a bit of energy. (Of course, if there are any lower outs or other sneaky maneuvers is the second needs to do that require extra rope, be sure to leave them enough slack to make that move.)