CE rated quick links from CAMP
CE rated quick links from CAMP
5mm, 8mm and 10mm (Note, the 5mm is stainless only, not CE rated, and 22 kN)
galvanized or stainless
starting at about $3 each
strength - 25kn to 50kN (!!!)
Let's take a moment to appreciate the humble quick link. Also known by a few other terms, such as “rapid links” or “maillon rapide” of just “maillon”, it's a simple, inexpensive, near bulletproof, and long lasting connection point that’s useful in many aspects of climbing. It was originally used by farmers, who needed an easy way to repair or extend chains. They are popular with cavers, who needs sturdy connection points that take a lot of abuse.
Of course you can buy quick links from the hardware store, but they're going to be made at some unknown machine shop in a far away country. Is that where you want your life support hardware to be from? I didn't think so. (Although, I added a video at the bottom of the page that shows even these hardware store versions are probably gonna be fine. . . )
Instead, for about the same price, get a proper CE rated quick link from a reputable manufacturer, such as CAMP or Metolius.
The 8 mm galvanized steel quicklink, rated 40 kN /9,000 lbs(!), is just $3, whatta deal!
Try a Google for “CAMP quick link” or visit the CAMP website.
(And, as is the policy at Alpinesavvy, this is not an affiliate link and I earn $0.00 by referring you to buy these quick links or take Mark’s class. I’m simply sharing good gear/info I think you’ll like too.)
But quick links are too heavy . . .
Many people like to hate on quick links, grumbling that they are “heavy” and single use item.
But are they really that heavy, compared to the gear you’re already carrying? Perhaps not! Check out the photo below. The 5 mm stainless steel quicklink is actually stronger, lighter, and less expensive than a small snapgate carabiner.
It does look about as robust as a paper clip, but can't argue with 25 kN! Yes they are a fairly specific single use item, but they do that one thing pretty darn well.
When rappelling, it’s best practice to run your rope through some sort of metal connection at the anchor. Doing this gives a smoother rope pull, with no chance of damaging the anchor webbing. In alpine climbing where you don’t have bolted/chain anchors, this usually means three options: quick link, rappel ring, or your least favorite carabiner. (Carabiner tip: tape the gate shut to make “cheapskate locker” for a more secure rappel anchor.)
Quick links are a good choice at rappel anchors for two reasons:
You can open the threaded sleeve and put it OVER existing cord or webbing (which you can kind of do with a rappel ring, but I find it sketchy).
They have a very small opening, which lets them be used with a blocking knot. (Blocking knots are an advanced technique; you can learn about them here.)
Notes . . .
It's best practice to close the sleeve of the quick link by screwing it down toward the ground. This means that gravity is helping keep the sleeve closed. A little pneumonic to help remember this is: “Screw DOWN so you don't screw UP.” Also applies to locking carabiners.
If you have a link that you want to fix it more permanently, give it an extra turn with a pair of pliers; a multi-tool is your friend. And if you’re a route developer, feel free to put a few drops of Loctite on it to really hold it closed.
A study from On Rope Canyoneering states that quick link breaking strength increases by roughly 10% if you use a wrench to tighten the sleeve rather than your hands.
What size quick link should I get?
5mm: Leave behind at alpine rappel stations, and as a master point if you're going to use a knot block, because it's so small. Fits rope up to about 10.5 mm. Yes it might look like a paper clip, but it's rated to 25 kN, #SuperGoodEnough!. From CAMP, comes in stainless steel only.
8mm: Nice all around size. A bit too heavy for alpine climbing. Fits two carabiners, and rotates through a standard bolt hanger. Good for connecting chain to hangers and rings. Rated to 40-50 kN.
10mm: Tie up aircraft carriers, and for master point / rope connection / lowering point at high use areas. Last a long time, cheap and easy to replace. (Yes, it's good practice in most areas to lower off for the last person rather than rappel. ) Rated to 40-50 kN.
When are quick links useful?
An alpine climb where you anticipate building your own rappel stations. The 5mm stainless is a good choice here.
If you're a good Samaritan and want to improve anchors at your local crag. (It's best practice in most outdoor climbing areas to use stainless steel hardware whenever possible. It lasts much longer. If you are equipping outdoor anchors, spend a few more bucks and get stainless steel.)
Making an anchor where you want to do some kind of a knot block (Reepschnur), and want to be 120% certain that the knot is unable to pass through the master point. A quick link is perfect for this.
Making a durable and (mostly) theft-proof “gym quickdraw” from a fixed eye steel carabiner and a quicklink for your project route or “clip & lower” sport anchor. (Photo below.)
You can chain two “dogbones” together to make an ultra-long quick draw. (Photo below.)
For certain applications in big wall climbing or rope soloing, where do you need a supe- strong, very reliable connection.
Please do NOT use them to bail off of a sport climb, use a carabiner instead. Reason: the gate is often quite difficult to open for the next person up who needs to remove your gear.
DIY “perma-draw”, like what you find on lead routes in many climbing gyms.
You can chain two quick draws together with a quick link, as seen on the right.
Here's where you should probably NOT use a quick link: retreating from a sport route. It can make it difficult to clip for the next climber, and they can be hard to remove, especially if they've been there for a while and the threads start to rust shut.
Leave a carabiner instead. If you're not comfortable with lowering from one snap gate, leave a locker, or tape the gate closed, aka “cheapskate locker”.
So, how strong are those hardware store quick links after all? Here's a video from On Rope Canyoneering that tries to answer the question.
They tested two diameters, zinc (non-stainless steel) hand tightened, five links of each size tested.
5/16” (8 mm) broke at an average of 31.5 kN
1/4” (6.4 mm) broke at an average of 10.5 kN
