Two methods for faster belay transitions
Having a simple and consistent method for belay changeovers, clearly understood by both partners, can really speed up multi pitch climbing. Here are two approaches, each offering a secure, speedy, and simple method to swap leads, with a minimum of gear and futzing around.
For this example, let’s assume:
A climbing team of Heidi and Hans, on a multi pitch route, where the partners are swapping leads every pitch.
Each climber has a plaquette style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide), and each climber has two designated locking carabiners to use with this device.
The second is belayed directly from the master point of the anchor.
They have reasonable ledges to stand on, not a full hanging belay.
The belayer is belaying the leader from their belay loop and not using a fixed point belay directly from the anchor.
Method #1 - Transfer the belay device from the anchor to the belay loop
Heidi leads pitch 1, builds an anchor, puts Hans on belay, and belays him up.
Hans arrives at the anchor, secures himself to the anchor with a clove hitch and calls off belay.
Key move: Heidi unclips the the belay device from the anchor master point, slides it down the rope, and clips what was the blocking carabiner to her belay loop. The rope never needs to come out of the belay device, slick!
Heidi ties an overhand on a bight / backup knot below her belay device to go hands free, and helps Hans rack for his lead.
When Hans is ready, he unties his clove hitch and begins leading pitch 2.
This is a better show than a tell. See a video demo below from AMGA Rock Guide Cody Bradford. While sadly Cody is no longer with us, his Instagram and Youtube continues to stay up and is a great source of tips like this.
Let's continue to honor his memory by learning from the many tips he has shared.
Method #2 - Exchange belay devices after each pitch
No video for this one, so you’ll have to follow a description. It takes a while to explain it in words, but in real life it’s faster than it might sound. :-)
Heidi leads pitch 1, builds an anchor, puts Hans on belay, and belays him up.
When Hans arrives at the anchor, he’s secured by Heidi‘s plaquette and the dynamic rope. There’s no need for Hans to search for a spare carabiner, use a personal tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, clove hitch his rope to anything, etc.
Heidi ties an backup / overhand on a bight in her brake strand, which lets her to go hands-free. She starts passing her remaining gear to Hans, who racks it for his lead on pitch 2.
Key move: exchange belay devices. As Hans is racking for the next pitch, Heidi takes the belay device and two locking carabiners from Han’s harness. She clips his device to her belay loop and puts Hans on lead belay for his upcoming pitch. The rope is (hopefully) already neatly stacked with Han’s end on top.
Hans is now secured by both belay devices: one from Heidi‘s harness, and one connected to the anchor master point.
Hans is racked up and ready to lead pitch 2. Hans unties the backup knot below the plaquette on the anchor. After clear communication with Heidi that he’s on lead belay and she's ready for him to climb, Hans removes the plaquette and the two locking carabiners from the anchor master point, and clips them to his harness. Hans heads out, completes pitch 2, and uses Heidi‘s belay device and her carabiners in the same way to belay her up.
They repeat this until they get to the top of the route. (And of course, make sure you check your harness and give all gear back to its rightful owner when you’re done.)
