How to extend a quickdraw

 

If you're on some ultra-steep or reachy sport route that requires extended quickdraws, here are some ways to do it. And a couple of ways not to.

In addition to connecting quickdraws like this, you could also use a 60 or 120 cm sling.

 

Two good methods to extend a quickdraw:

  • Probably the easiest: remove the top carabiner from a second draw, and then clip the dog bone into the bottom of the first draw (left).

  • A more secure version: replace the carabiner with a quick link or locking carabiner (right).

quickdraw extend correct.jpg

Two not-great ways to extend a quickdraw:

  • Chaining together two non-locking carabiners is a no no. A fall could twist the carabiners together and cause them to unclip (left). It is okay to clip the bottom carabiner for a rest, and then clip the rope through the top draw when you continue climbing.

  • The quickdraws are extended correctly, but the rope is clipped to the wrong place. A fall with the rope clipped like this might damage the dogbone of the lower quickdraw (right)

quickdraw extended wrong
 
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Rack spare carabiners in a "football"

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My favorite mini headlamp - the Petzl Bindi