How to sling hooks
Hooks are a key part of any aid climbing rack. However, unlike most any other kind of climbing gear, most hooks require a little modification before you can use them: adding a sling.
There are some best practices for this, and some of them are a bit subtle.
The hook on the left is not terrible, but it's not ideal either. Why?
Proper loop length. The right hook has a loop that’s the proper length, about 3 inches / 8 cm. (Much shorter than this and you risk nudging the hook off of a marginal placement when you clip it.) The hook on the left has a webbing loop that's too long, meaning you're losing precious reach with every placement.
Thread the webbing from the outside to the inside. This is done correctly with the hook on the right. This puts an inward and downward force on the hook when you load it. (This only applies to hooks with two holes. For a cam hook or Talon three-way hook, as in the photo at the bottom, it doesn't matter.)
“Dress it and stress it”. Crank on the tails of the knot as tight as you can; I use pliers. Soak the knot in water, then weight the hook and bounce test it a few times. As the webbing dries, the knot will contract and become tighter.
There are a few more tips.
How much material do you need to buy per hook?
What's better, cord or webbing?
If you want custom-sewn slings on your hooks, where can you get that service?
