Alpine Tips
Ascenders - when not to use the handle
Just because your ascender has a handle doesn't mean you have to use it. On lower angle rope climbing, the handle can be great. When it starts to get steep, you might want to try a more ergonomic hand position.
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This tip idea is from Australian rigging expert Richard Delaney. Connect with Richard on Instagram and his YouTube channel, where he has loads of concise, informative videos.
Just because there's a handle on your ascender doesn't mean you have to use it.
Handles can be great on lower angled rock, but if things get vertical, it might be more ergonomic or comfortable to put your hand on top of the ascender. Squeeze and lift the top to slide it up, and sort of press down on the sides and top as you stand up.
Keeping your hand off of the handle can serve as a subtle reminder that you shouldn’t be trying to do one arm pull ups. Use your legs to push up, and your arms mostly for balance.
Big wall climbers will usually use handled ascenders, because they are alternating between low angle and steeper rock. Rope access people may choose to avoid handled ascenders, or use them in the way shown here.
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The "Oh Sh*t kit"
If you carry some small and lightweight rescue gear, you can improvise just about any sort of hauling, rope ascending, or mechanical advantage system you might need to rig. Here's what I carry.
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Having a few basic tools to ascend a rope, set up a mechanical advantage haul system, or cut a rope / webbing is a great starting point for just about any sort of rescue scenario.
There are many items you could put in a kit like this. A frugal start is a couple of prusik loops and spare carabiners. But, having some dedicated gear offers greater efficiency and more options. Combine this rescue gear with a couple of 60 or 120 cm slings, or a cordelette, and you can do all kinds of rescue trickery!
For alpine climbing, here's what I usually carry:
Petzl Nano Traxion progress capture pulley
Petzl Tibloc rope grab
Sterling friction hitch (Hollowblock, or shown here, 6 mm autoblock cord)
Tiny hardware store cheapo lockblade knife, with tape wrapped around it to prevent it from opening accidentally, and a short clip-in loop attached. If you want a better knife, check out the Trango Piranha or the Petzl Spatha
All conveniently racked on an oval locker
The knife is used to remove sun-bleached ancient crusty webbing from rap anchors (hopefully replaced with new material by you), to cut a cordelette for rap anchor material, and if needed, to cut away something under tension in some sort of awful rescue rescue scenario where it might be your least-worst option. (See the classic Joe Simpson book “Touching the Void” for an epic story about this very thing.)
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30+ tips for more efficient aid climbing
A summary of various tricks and tips to aid climb more efficiently, also known as “just about everything I wish I knew when I started aid climbing”. These tips may take years off your learning curve.
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Nearing the top of Moonlight buttress in a day, Zion National Park, Utah. Photo by me
“Speed climbing” on a big wall route gets a lot of press. But in reality, most of us plodders would do better to focus not on speed, but rather efficiency. Efficiency can mean not running out of water when your three day climb turns into four, avoiding strangling your partner (or vice versa), not taking 30+ minutes for a belay changeover, not climbing by headlamp when you could be kicking back in your portaledge . . . you get the idea.
Below is a somewhat random assortment of climbing tips to help you climb with greater efficiency, and thus speed. Why do I mention these particular tips? Because I ignored pretty much every single one of them on my first couple of walls and sometimes went pretty darn slow as a result. Sure wish I knew all these beforehand!
If you’ve been at the big wall game for a while, you probably know most of these already. If you're fairly new to aid climbing, these tips may be more helpful. These are merely my opinion/experience, and are by no means a complete list. In no order of importance, here we go.
Don’t rush
Speed does not mean fast. Speed means smooth, controlled, well-planned, and properly executed. The Navy SEALS have a saying: ”Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast.” Do the task you have in front of you at a proper pace, and do it right the first time. “Smooth” comes from practice and having your systems dialed before you get up on a real climb.
What you're really striving for is efficiency, not speed. If you achieve efficiency, you can actually slow down in your movements, be more relaxed, and enjoy your experience more. Another way to think about it: you increase your speed by minimizing the downtime when no one is making upward progress.
Wall ace Mark Hudon: “Most wall climbers today would gain far, far more time by simply understanding and doing the basic big wall tasks faster.” So, what are the basic tasks? Leading, cleaning, hauling, anchor building, belay changeovers, rope / belay management, staying fed/watered and comfy during the day.
Think of everything physical as a “movement sandwich” (rest, move, rest)
Unlike most other aspects of rock climbing, you can rest pretty much whenever you want to on a big wall. Use this to your advantage. From big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick’s excellent aid climbing book, “Higher Education”:
“You should never find aid climbing hard. If you do, it means you're doing it wrong. If your arms are tired when leading, you're not resting on your fifi hook. If you get pumped ascending a rope, that means your lanyards are not set right or you’re standing in the wrong step of your aider. The same goes for hauling, if you're busting a gut then switch it up to a 2:1 or maybe space hauling. Almost everything physical should be a ‘movement sandwich’, movement placed between two slices of rest. Rest-move-rest. Rest-move-rest.”
Time yourself when practicing
Yes, we’re talking stopwatch. During your training, time yourself and your partner doing different tasks. How long did it take you to do EACH of these tasks - Lead the pitch, build the anchor, fix the rope, set up the haul, do the haul, clean the pitch, re-rack the gear, and have your partner start leading the next pitch? Repeat all these on the same training route different times maybe over different days, and notice your times hopefully start to dramatically improve. Have fun, and make training a little competitive. Time each segment, loser buys beverages.
Don’t “learn” to aid on a real route
People stuck behind you who have the skills to climb it for real will NOT be happy. EVERYTHING you do on a wall should be practiced BEFORE you get to the actual climb. To put it another way, on your actual route, you should never be trying something for the first time.
Do repeat laps on obscure 5.11 cracks until you get your movement and systems dialed. Time yourself.
Haul a 100 pound bag 1:1.
Experience “riding the pig” by rappelling with your fully loaded haul bag. ( Tip - don’t hang it from your belay loop!)
Set up your ledge on a real cliff and spend a night in it, not just in a backyard tree.
Poop in a bag, on your ledge
Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before failure.
Practice passing a knot, both going up with ascenders and going down (rappelling).
Put in your training. Practice the core skills. You, your partner, and everyone behind you on the route will have a much better time. (People who go try Monkey Face at Smith Rock Oregon who have never aid climbed before and take 2 hours to lead and clean a short bolt ladder, I’m looking at YOU!)
You can practice just about every big wall skill on a short route
When practicing, make the best use of what you have. This could be a route in a cooperative climbing gym, or a one pitch obscure crack at your local crag. Don't start the pitch standing on the ground. Climb up just a few meters, make a hanging belay, and start from there. Make a few moves, build another belay, haul and bring your partner up and repeat. This gives you extra practice at anchor building, hauling, and transitions, which can be a giant time suck for beginners.
Have all the skills needed for your route
Study the topo, photos and trip reports. Is there a pendulum and a lower out? How far is it? Do you need to hook? Is there a burly off width? Do you know how to clean a traverse? What’s the hardest mandatory free climbing, and can I/we do it?
Do you know how to lead AND clean a roof? The classic “Kor Roof” pitch on the South Face of Washington Column in Yosemite has shut down many an ambitious first time big wall team. Roof climbing is admittedly hard to practice, but read the topo and do your best to train before you go. Try the underside of an outdoor staircase, playground swing set, rope between 2 trees, or roof route in a helpful climbing gym. If you’re in Yosemite, be sure to put in a practice lap or two on the LeConte Boulder.
There’s a bounty of route beta for just about every beginner route you would ever want to try. Study up, know what skills you need to have, and master them before you go.
Talk over each pitch before the climb
Before you leave the ground, go over every pitch in detail with your partner. Talk over who’s going to do what, when will it happen, and how you’re going to handle any anticipated difficulties. Do we have all the gear needed for the route? What’s the farthest we need to lower out the bags, and do we need a separate lower out line? Does a pitch go around a corner so we maybe can’t hear or see each other? (Better have a clear communication plan.) Are we leading in blocks or swapping leads? Who gets what pitches? What’s our anticipated timeline, and what do we do if we’re faster or slower than we planned?
Having an action plan means you don’t need to create one on the fly and make important decisions when you’re tired and stressed. Sure, you can change your plan, but it’s a starting blueprint that guides your actions, instead of pretty much winging it on every pitch.
Route topos
Make several copies of the route topo. One for each person on the team and one extra. I like to laminate mine at the office store, and put in a grommet, and then tie some cord through the grommet as a clip in point.
Save a photo or PDF of the topo (and other relevant beta, like the descent route) onto your phone, which is free and weighs 0.0 grams. This goes for your partner as well.
Always ask yourself when you have downtime: “What could I be doing right now to make this climb faster or safer?”
Especially for beginners, there’s almost always something. Be on a constant lookout for small potential problems, and deal with them before they become larger real problems. “Hmm, looks like that haul rope is hung up on something. I better deal with that right now before the leader starts to pull it up . . . ”
Andy Kirkpatrick: Remember the number one sentence that needs to be avoided on a wall: “Hang on a minute!”
Strive for well-organized anchors
This is probably the single biggest time suck and cluster-generator for newer climbers. Something as simple as which side of the anchor to dock the haul bag can create either an effortless release or an incredible tangle. Decide where the bag is going to go, use rope bags, have multiple full strength clipping points, keep the lead rope and haul rope separated and tangle free and you'll be well on your way.
Maintaining the psyche
Big wall expert Mark Hudon has some self-talk he uses when things get spicy: “I may be scared, but I’m at LEAST as good as the WORST climber who has ever done this route! If they got past this point, dammit, so can I!” Remind yourself of this, and maybe even laugh a little when you’re faced with a tough spot.
Be patient with your partner and do not “blame”, no matter whose fault something might be. Mistakes will happen. Work together to overcome the problem.
Use a day bag
Don’t be diving into the haul bags at each belay to get snacks, water, sunscreen, windbreaker, etc. It's big time suck, waste of energy, and greatly increases the chance of dropping something. In the morning, put all the stuff you need for the day in a smaller “day bag” (aka “piglet”) or wall bucket, tied outside your haul bag (probably on a gear tether) for easy access. (Remind your partner to get their day gear all ready at the morning bivy.) Check out the “RTFN bag” and Wall Bucket at Skot’s Wall Gear.
Second leaves the belay fast
Try to minimize time when both climbers are at a belay and not moving. Especially, strive for fast belay changeovers. Slow belay changeovers can be a huge time suck for beginners.
The leader should call down when they are getting close to the anchor (the 25 foot rule) so the second can start tidying things up. One good thing for the belayer to do at this point is to be sure the haul bags are properly packed away, unencumbered, the haul rope is running freely, and the bags and rope are ready for lift off, because the very first task for the leader is to pull the bags a little bit off of the anchor, so the second can clean everything.
The leader should never be “ready to haul” and have to then wait for the second to sort things out!fdecide
When the leader calls “rope is fixed” the second can clip their ascenders to the lead rope and fully weight it. This frees up most of the anchor, the second can get to work breaking it down, and get ready to release the bags.
Releasing the bags should be pretty much effortless if you use a docking cord, which is a tether that’s releasable under load. Forget the old school method of using a daisy chain or some other static sling to connect your bags to the anchor; this can often require brute force to get your bags moving, especially if the pitch above traverses.
If the next pitch traverses to one side (say the right), you probably want the bags docked on the right side of the anchor, so they don't swing across you and smack you when you release them.
There's really no need to haul the bags up snug with the anchor on every pitch, unless you’re spending the night there. Hanging the bags a bit below the anchor can make your belay less clustered.
Generally, the bags should never be undocked by the second until they have fully lifted off from the anchor, and the second can check that nothing is hung up, carabiner is being weighted correctly, etc.
Clean the gear in semi-tidiness
You don’t need to be super type A and organize every piece of gear immaculately when cleaning, but you also don’t want to clip it any which way.
A cleaning system that works well: have two single length / 60 cm runners, one over each shoulder. Use wider nylon slings rather then skinny Dyneema - wider is more comfortable under a load of gear.
Clip free carabiners and slings onto one runner, and gear onto the other. Generally order the gear by size, but don’t be too fussy about it at the expense of upward progress. Avoid racking gear on your waist loops, unless you like the feeling of 30+ pounds of hardware causing your harness to slowly creep down towards your ankles.
When the cleaner gets to the top anchor, these two gear slings get clipped somewhere safe, and quickly added back onto the lead rack by whoever is leading the next pitch.
Doing this allows you to quickly hand off the gear at the next belay, rather than unclipping things one by one from your gear loops. This is much faster, and there’s less chance to drop things.
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Climbing on a chopped rope - lead rope soloing
Yikes, your rope got damaged near the middle from rockfall, and for whatever reason you have to keep climbing up instead of rapping down. The highly advanced technique of lead rope soloing is one way to solve this unfortunate and unlikely situation.
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Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. If you do them wrong, you could die. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation.
image shared with permission: https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/rope-solo/
Yo! Lead rope soloing is a VERY advanced technique and far beyond the scope of this article to teach you how to do safely. I’m only introducing this technique if you have to use it in the following unfortunate and unlikely situation.
You’re on a committing route and have the following misfortune:
Due to whatever random act of the goddess, your lead rope gets a severe cut or is damaged by rockfall.
To make it even more challenging, the cut is close to the center of the rope. (If the damage is near one end, you may be able to cut the rope and continue climbing on whatever you have left. You may have to get creative with belay anchors.)
Due to the route, your position on it, or whatever, you decide that it’s better to continue leading UP rather than to rappel DOWN. (In many cases, heading down might be the better choice. There are several clever ways to rappel when you can avoid passing that pesky knot entirely. Here's an article on that.)
If you cut out the damaged part of the rope and tie the two pieces together, the knot won't go through protection if you climb and belay in the normal manner.
So, the crucial question: how do you continue to lead?
An option is lead rope soloing. When lead rope soloing, the rope doesn’t pass through the placed gear like in normal leading.
This lets you climb with a knot in the middle of your rope, schweeeet!
But, it's gonna be awkward, slow and kind of scary, so that's not so schweeeet!
Lead rope soloing is normally the realm of socially inept big wall climbers, who can't find a partner for their week+ vertical camping trip on El Capitan, or big wall speed climbers, who do what’s called “short fixing” to efficiently keep lead climbing while their partner is cleaning the last pitch.
Yann Camus of Bliss Climbing, has online classes in both lead rope solo and top rope solo, Check him out!
You can get a discount on his classes by becoming an Alpinesavvy Premium Member.
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"Alpine Equalization" Don't clip the thumb loop
A common tactic in building fast alpine anchors with minimal gear is to directly clip one cam to another, without using slings between them. However, there's a right way and a less than ideal way to do it - don't clip the thumb loop. How bad is this? We broke some cams to find out!
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I first heard of this potential issue from AMGA Certified Rock Guide Ben Wu on this Instagram post. Connect with Ben on Instagram, @benwooster, or on his website.
While the “textbook” way to equalize a gear / trad anchor is to use slings or maybe a cordelette, there are some alternatives.
One of them is so-called “alpine equalizing”. Here, you try to share the load between two pieces of gear, typically cams, by clipping one directly to the other. If the crack is cooperative and you can move the cams up or down the crack slightly, you can often get pretty decent load sharing.
However, there's a right way and a not-so-right way to clip the cams to each other.
In the photo on the right, the top cam is clipped to the thumb loop of the bottom cam. If the bottom cam fails under load and transfers all the load onto the top cam, you’re now cross loading the thumb loop in two opposite directions, which it’s not designed to do.
So how bad is it?
Gear-breaking mad scientist Ryan Jenks from HowNOT2 and I tested this. We found that the thumb loop can start to deform at around only 2 kN! The ultimate failure point was around 12-ish kN, which means you're probably not gonna die. Check the video below for all the details!
But you ARE likely to mess up your cam, it's not good practice and there's definitely better ways to clip, so don't do it!
To quote Ryan in the video below, “It's not dangerous, it's dumb.”
The photo on the left shows a better way to alpine equalize: Clip the top cam into the SLING of the bottom cam, not the thumb loop. Another alternative, clip one carabiner into another.
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Rappel efficiency tips from Petzl
On multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by using a few simple time-saving techniques. Here are several of them, in a great little diagram from the clever Petzl web gnomes.
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When doing multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by implementing a few small but significant efficiency steps. This great diagram from Petzl shows a few of them. Let's have a closer look.
The two climbers are doing a multipitch double rope rappel.
The knot is on the left side of the anchor, so they are pulling the purple rope.
LEFT: The end of the purple rope is threaded through the bottom anchor before they start pulling. (It's usually good practice to have a knot(s) in the end of at least one strand, that’s not shown here.)
MIDDLE: While the left side climber is pulling down, the right side climber is pulling the rope through the anchor. If it's steep, as in the diagram, the rope might simply feed down the cliff all by itself. That's great, no need to throw it at all. If it's not steep, the climber on the right could be stacking the rope, and preparing the end to throw. Here's a longer article on getting your ropes down the cliff.
RIGHT: As soon as the knot gets to the lower anchor, the right side climber can start rigging the rappel, while the left climber continues to pull down the blue rope. If the rope is cooperating, the blue rope will fall through the upper anchor, past the climbers, and then down to the next station or the ground.
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Belaying the leader with a “fixed point” belay
Common practice in many parts of Europe, belaying a leader directly from an anchor rather than your harness is a new idea for many Americans. This article covers an overview of the technique, pros and cons, an FAQ, photos of how to set it up, and print / video resources for further study.
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Alpinesavvy thanks Angelique Brown for translating the French technical documents mentioned in this article, Richard Goldstone for editorial comments, ACMG Alpine Guide Sean Isaac for some FAQ details, and IFMGA Certified Guide Patrick Ormond for a few extra fixed point belay tips.
Note: All climbing techniques, especially one as important as belaying a leader, are best learned under the guidance of a qualified instructor, ideally a credentialed mountain guide. Please seek out proper instruction if you want to learn this technique. This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace in-person instruction and practice.
image: climbgermany.com / Georg Sojer
If you've been climbing for awhile, you might remember around 2001 when the Petzl Reverso belay device was introduced. For most climbers, it’s most innovative, and to some controversial feature, was the ability to belay your second directly off the anchor and have the device autolock.
Now, the autolock feature was great, but belay your second off of the anchor?! Why would I do that? That's what the belay loop on my harness is for! Those crazy Euros, always inventing stuff we don't need . . .
The general acceptance of climbing “best practices” does evolve, but it tends to do so rather slowly. In the progression of belay technique, we've gone from hip and body belays, to doing everything off of the harness, to the now generally accepted procedure of belaying the second directly from the anchor. What might be next?
Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay.
The primary reasons to use this:
Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay
Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage
Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall.
The German Alpine Club (Deutscher Alpenverein, or DAV) is one of the leading proponents of this technique. Here's what they have to say about it. (pdf article link) (Bold text mine)
“Consequently, you ought to be familiar with the anchor belay method which is the basic method for multi-pitch routes. Generally speaking, the body belay method (from the belay loop) is an option in particular on pitches fully equipped with bolts and with smaller distances between the bolts. The anchor belay method, however, is the more recommendable belay method in routes with a more alpine character, i.e. with only few or questionable intermediate fixing points, traverses, confusing route courses or the possibility of far, uncontrolled falls.“
It's also recommended by the French National Mountain Guide School (École Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme, or ENSA). Here are their conclusions: (The quotations are from this video, see it below.)
3:20 “If you’re tied into an anchor, the (belay) method which generates the lowest forces on the runner holding the fall is when the belay system is placed directly on the anchor. This is also the safer and more comfortable method for the belayer.”
5:27 - “When the belayer does not have the option of belaying dynamically on a large ledge, we recommend you build an anchor with a fixed central point and belay directly on this central point.”
image: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqZQnCGl24A
There are some compelling reasons and specific situations when might want to use this. There are also some specific requirements of anchor building to do this most effectively, that may well run counter to what you think you know about anchor construction.
It's not the purpose of this article to tell you everything about this technique, nor to suggest you should start using it tomorrow. It's more to provide information and resources so you can consider if and when you may want to implement this in your own climbing.
The following points are from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) video, linked to at the bottom of this article. Consider a fixed point belay when there is/are:
Two very solid anchor components that can take a hard upward pull, usually 2 bolts or ice screws. (A fixed point belay can be done on a trad gear anchor, but you need a solid upward directional piece. It’s a good idea to initially learn this technique on bolts, then try it with a trad anchor.)
The anchor master point is waist to head height, chest high is ideal. This makes for easier rope feeding. If the anchor is much higher or lower (like on a slab), it can be difficult to feed rope properly.
Large weight difference between climbers (heavier leader and a lighter belayer).
Higher potential for a leader fall.
Potential for a higher impact/high fall factor.
Potential for a long leader fall, such as slab routes or alpine ice routes.
Possible issues in giving a reliable belay, such as an inexperienced belayer, icy ropes, a poor stance, or a belay under a roof of other feature where the belay might get yanked into, or maybe a traversing pitch, where the belayer might be pulled sideways.
What are some of the key features of a fixed point belay?
In the event of a fall, force is transferred directly to the anchor, rather than to the belayer's body.
When building the anchor, you don't try to “equalize” forces the two bolts or screws. That's right, no equalization.
The belayer often belays the leader with a Munter hitch, because it has some slippage and thus lowers forces on the leader. (The Munter belay doesn't really mean the rope slips through your hand. The brake hand is pulled towards the knot, and the increased friction as the rope runs through the knot absorbs some of the energy from the fall.) It's also possible to belay with a belay plate, provided you redirect the brake strand until solid gear is placed by the leader.
Because of more rope possibly slipping through your belay device or Munter hitch, wearing gloves is highly recommended.
The belay carabiner should be attached to the anchor in such a way that there will be minimal upward travel in case of a leader fall. A rule of thumb for this: try to limit upward movement to about 20 cm / 6 inches or less. This means keeping your anchor material fairly tight and the hole you clip to fairly small, examples of that below.
It can be easier to feed rope if the belayer is hanging below the master carabiner, rather than off to the side.
Bolts oriented vertically usually work best, like the vertical Fixe chain and ring anchor shown below, or the diagram at the very top of the page. This style of vertical anchor hardware is optimized for belaying the leader directly from the bottom ring. However, it's also easy to rig a fixed point belay horizontally, see example below.
Note: the belayer has the option of beginning the pitch using a Munter hitch, and then after the climber is further up, has more rope out and a few good pieces in, can transition to a more traditional belay from their harness. This isn’t an “all or nothing” system. You can use a “hybrid” of two different belay methods on the same pitch. To do this, have a look at the pitch. If you think your leader can get in some solid placements about 5 meters away from your anchor, pull up about 7 meters of rope, and add your belay device. Belay directly from the anchor with a munter hitch until they clip a couple of pieces, then have them get into a rest stance for a moment while you transition to a harness belay. (This is one you definitely want to practice in a controlled environment.)
What are some downsides of a fixed point belay?
Can be more difficult to feed out rope quickly
Increases the force of the fall on the leader
Generally, this system should NOT be used when: single pitch climbing with the belayer on the ground, if the belayer needs to be positioned away from the anchor, If the anchor point is low down or on a slab or otherwise in an awkward position, or when there's no option to create an anchor that can take an upward pull.
Fixe chain and ring anchor; a perfect set up for a fixed point belay.
A few common questions, comments and grumbles. . .
Does a fixed point belay increase the force on the top piece of gear? It depends on the particulars of the belay (Munter hitch or ATC, firm grab or let a bit of rope slip out), but generally the answer seems to be “no” to “a little bit.” As mentioned above, tests by the French National Guide School state that the direct belay generated the lowest forces on the top piece of gear. Tests by the DAV (German Alpine Club) show that forces on the top piece of gear are essentially the same as when belaying the leader off your harness. Part of the reason for this is that the belayer’s weight is taken out of the equation, so there is less of a pulley effect on the top piece of gear.
From Mountainproject: “Practical tests by the German DAV, the University of Innsbruck, Austria, and the Italian CAI showed that belaying from the body without the possibility of actively moving into the direction of the falling leader (aka dynamic belay) results in similarly high forces (ca. 5,7 kN) on the last bolt/nut/cam, as belaying from the anchor directly (ca. 5,8 kN).”
“Does a fixed point belay increase the force on the belay anchor?” No. Testing (See the French Mountain Guide School video link below at 2:14) shows the forces on the anchor are actually reduced. From the translated ENSA article, link below: “Paradoxically, the force is generated on the anchor is more significant when the belay is on the harness. The belayer, pulled by the faller, takes on speed, and therefore kinetic energy. Once the belayer can no longer move, the anchor experiences two stopping forces, the faller and the belayer.”
“Isn't it better to clip the anchor is the first piece, to redirect the rope and prevent a factor 2 fall?” Short answer is no. In the worst case of a factor 2, it's better for the force to be held by the completely equalized anchor then the two times multiplication of force that happens with a clipped redirect due to the pulley effect.
“Does a fixed point belay increase force on the falling climber?” Yes. The force on the falling climber is no longer partially being absorbed by the belayer being pulled upward, so more of it goes to the leader.
“Does this create dangerous three-way loading on the carabiner?” No. Even when catching a hard lead fall, the forces in the system are nowhere close to what is required to break a carabiner (which is around 17 kN if it's loaded equally in three directions.) Here's a more detailed article about off-axis carabiner loading.
“Can I use a tube belay device or a Grigri instead of a Munter hitch?” You can use a tube device, but you need to take the extra step of redirecting the brake strand before the leader clips the first piece of gear, which is one more thing to remember and might make it initially a little harder to feed rope. After the leader gets some solid gear in, you can remove the redirect piece and probably have a smooth easy belay. A Grigri is not recommended, because it allows less rope slippage, which can increase the force on the lead climber and the top piece of protection.
“I'm concerned that belaying with a Munter hitch will twist the rope.” Belaying a leader with a Munter generally does not twist the rope, because there’s not a continuous load, such as when rappelling. If belaying with a Munter hitch, using an auto-locking carabiner can minimize any chance of the rope messing with the carabiner gate.
“When I'm bringing up my second, can I do it from the fixed point, or do I have to completely re-rig the anchor?” Yes, you can bring them up off of the fixed point. No need to change anything on the anchor.
“I like to give a ‘soft catch’ dynamic belay so it's less force on the gear and on my partner. This technique doesn’t let me do this.” A well-timed jump for a “soft catch” is great if you're standing on the ground or a big ledge, but it doesn't work at a tiny ledge or hanging belay station. (Plus, the French tests indicate that letting a bit of rope slip through your belay more effective in lowering forces then using a more dynamic style belay.)
What?! Those bolts aren't equalized! That's not a real anchor! That’s right. You're not trying to distribute the force evenly like in a more traditional anchor. All of the load is on one anchor, and the other is there for redundancy/backup. This technique is only to be used when the gear placements are unquestionably strong. This usually means two bolts or two bomber ice screws. Keep in mind, the maximum upward force tested in a lead fall is about 4 kN. Also, the munter hitch will begin to slip at around 2-3 kN, further reducing the peak force.
“Can I do a fixed point belay with a gear anchor?” You can, but there needs to be an upward pull component of the anchor. (This is for sure a more advanced technique, definitely practice it with a qualified instructor, and we're not going to cover this belay style from gear anchors in this article.)
“How do I use double ropes?“ You need to use a tube style belay device, not a Munter hitch. If you do this, the brake strand must be redirected until the leader clips at least two fully reliable protection points, a.k.a. bolts.
“What's up with that double loop bowline on a bight? Isn’t a bowline an unstable knot? Is that redundant with just the one strand around the knot? What if you ring load it, is that a problem?“ The double loop bowline on a bight has been extensively tested by Canadian and European mountaineering associations, who had determined it’s fine for this application. Test result: 20 kN, #SuperGoodEnough!
So, what if you don’t have a nifty Fixe vertical anchor rig like the above photo, but a standard American style two bolt horizontal anchor? No worries - here’s one of several ways to do it. This can be tied with cord or webbing, here were using a sewn sling. (Note, this is pretty much the same system shown in the drawing at the very top of the page, just turned horizontally.)
You need:
one sewn double length / 120 cm runner, nylon preferred (also works with a cord loop)
one regular carabiner
two locking carabiners, with1 of them a pear shaped , HMS belay carabiner, if belaying from a Munter hitch. Canadian Guide Sean Isaac likes the Edelrid HMS Strike Triple FG carabiner, which is a triple action, captive eye carabiner that makes for a more secure belay.
First, prepare your anchor sling. You could tie this with a simple overhand loop. But a bowline on a bight (aka double loop bowline) is better, because the two loops are stronger and its easier to untie if you want to. Now, most folks have never tied a double loop bowline, let alone in webbing. It can be a little tricky to tie correctly. If you tie it wrong, you may get a slipknot. If you tie it correctly, you should have two small loops a couple of inches in diameter. So, take your time and do it right.
Once you're tie it, you probably don't have to untie it for a while. (If you happen to catch some big whippers on it, probably best to untie it and retie the loops in a different spot.)
Tip: Put the sewn bar tacks on the far other end away from where you tie the bowline on a bight.
I know of two ways to tie a double loop bowline. The diagram below is probably the simplest. The video shows another method.
image: Georg Sojer, https://www.outdoor-magazin.com/klettern/basiskurs-alpines-klettern/
There's lots more to learn about the fixed point belay.
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Snag-free screw storage with the Ice Screw Cannon
Looking for a convenient, bulletproof, snag-free and made-in-USA way to store your ice screws? Check out the Screw Cannon from High Mountain Gear.
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Do you want a way to carry ice screws that’s lightweight, super-strong, convenient, snag free, sourced and made in the USA, and doubles as a gear stuff sack?
Look no further than the Ice Screw Cannon by High Mountain Gear.
The Screw Cannon organizes and provides easy access to ice screws. It has a unique tapered and offset tube design for snag-free storage, capacity for 12+ or 14+ screws, and is made from super durable, waterproof recycled sailcloth. Weight: 3.7 oz / 105g for the small) and 5.0 oz / 142g for the large.
High Mountain Gear has a clever accessory to increase the capacity of the screw cannon. Want to learn about it?
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What's in my pack: alpine climbing gear with Graham Zimmerman
Check out what American alpinist (and Piolet d’Or winner) Graham Zimmerman brought on a highly technical climb of Link Sar in Pakistan. Also, his new memoir is terrific, as is a YouTube film documenting this climb.
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Connect with Graham on his website and on Instagram, @grahamzimmerman
American alpinist (and Piolet d’Or winner) Graham Zimmerman has an impressive record on big expeditions to many corners of the world. He obviously pays great attention to his gear.
Here's a video of him going through some equipment he used on a highly technical climb of Link Sar in Pakistan in 2017.
Check it out for some tips that might help you on your next outing, even if it's a more modest objective.
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Chain link fence for anchor practice
Looking for a convenient and sturdy place to practice climbing anchors in town? Look no further than the nearest chain link fence.
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Want a convenient and sturdy place to practice anchor building, or maybe cleaning and lowering from a sport route? Look no further than the nearest chain link fence.
Want to learn a few more tricks for anchor practice on a fence??
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Vertical anchors 101
While vertically oriented chain anchors are still uncommon in many areas, they offer a few advantages over horizontal anchors. Learn some of the benefits of vertical anchors, and check out some ways to rig them for top rope, multi pitch, and rappel.
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This article was written with editing assistance from Silas Rossi, IFMGA Certified Guide. Connect with Silas at Alpine Logic.
Vertically oriented chain anchors tend to be more common in Europe and Canada than in many parts of the United States, but they are catching on. While they can be rigged for one pitch top rope climbs, they really shine on multi pitch routes, where the rappel (descent) is the same as the ascent.
The photo above shows a “all in one” vertical chain anchor made by the Spanish company Fixe. Note that the hangers, chain and ring are all welded together. While these are popular, they have the small drawbacks of a fixed length of chain, and no way to replace individual components.
An alternative is to build your own vertical chain anchor, using quick links to connect components. Doing this allows adjustment of the chain length to better fit any rock bulges or pockets, and allows easy replacement of individual parts as needed. If you do this, try to use CE climbing rated quick links, that test to about 40 kN, not hardware store links with a questionable lineage and no CE rating. Secure the links with Loctite and pliers. Here's an example of a vertical chain anchor made from separate components.
Fixe recently updated this anchor. There’s now a ring at the top bolt hanger, instead of the welded chain link. See photo below. The example shown in the rest of the photos on this page is the older model.
image: fixehardware.com/index.php/fixe-plx-duplex-ss-1-2-traditional-anchor.html
Where to clip?
It's best practice to avoid clipping the horizontal hanger on the bottom. Most of the time this will be OK. But in some cases with certain styles of carabiner, they can get twisted and torqued in some strange ways. I've never heard of one breaking, but it's usually better to clip the ring or the top vertical hanger.
(There is a long-standing climbing myth that Fi\xe actually recommends doing this. However I’ve looked through their technical documentation and can't find any recommendation, so I think this is not true.)
What are the advantages of a vertical chain anchor?
Simplifies clipping to an anchor that’s redundant and very strong. This is especially helpful when rappelling; clip your tether to any component of the anchor and you’re attached to two bolts instead of one.
Efficient use of materials. It can be less expensive (compared to two hangers, four quicklinks and two chains) and the route setter does not have to deal with cutting chain links or carrying unneeded heavy hardware to the crag and up the route.
Gives the route setter more flexibility in where the anchor goes, especially important in rock with pockets, protrusions, erosion, etc. Choosing to use a vertical anchor can depend on the rock structure and geology.
Zero twisting of the rope when lowering or rappelling, because it’s only going through one bit of anchor hardware. Plus, because the ring always hangs perpendicular to the rock, you're probably going to have an easier rope pull with less friction.
Lower visual impact. This is a concern in some areas.
However, using these anchors can be a bit of a head-scratcher for climbers who are used to a pair of horizontal matched bolts and chains. What should I use as a master point? Can I REALLY trust that ring? The doozy for many people, is it really redundant and/or equalized?! And sheesh, can I ignore all of this confusing hardware and just clip a quad or cordelette to the bolts?
Let's address some common concerns about vertical chain anchors.
“It's not redundant.”
Yes, you’re fully relying on the single ring at the bottom. But it's made of 10 mm welded stainless steel rod. Hownot2.com tested two of these rings. One broke at 90 kN and the other broke at 47 kN. You can see the ring results here in their YouTube video. (Steel ring testing starts at 6:00.)
You can hang (4? 5?) Toyotas from it, and it’s WAY stronger than all of the things you normally rely on that are single point and not redundant, such as your belay loop, your rope, your harness, all of your carabiners, probably the bolt that you just took several huge falls on . . .
Plus, both the ring is right there in the open and easy to inspect, as opposed to a bolt in the rock.
“The load isn’t equalized.”
Correct, it's not. When using the ring, all the load is pretty much on the bottom bolt, with the top bolt backing it up. A modern, properly placed ⅜” (10mm) bolt, or better yet ½” (12mm) bolts should hold more than 25 kN. There's really no need to try to equalize the load between bolts this strong.
“Clipping to the ring clogs it up, so another team can't use it to rappel.”
This often can be true in a more traditional anchor that might have a small chain link or quick link at the bottom. However, with this anchor, and the giant ring, it's not a concern. Even if you're clipped to the ring, there's plenty of room to thread the rappel over the top of your carabiner. Plus, there's a simple technique for a “down” team to pass an “up” team - the up team adds their locking carabiner to their anchor, and the down team clips their rope to it for a rappel. See a full article on that here.
“You’re clipping metal to metal. Clipping a carabiner to a rappel ring can damage it.”
Clipping a couple of locking carabiners to each other and an anchor when you're standing right there to monitor them is totally fine. Plus, your soft aluminum carabiner is never going to put any nicks or scratches on the much harder steel ring. (It's like using a plastic ice scraper on a car windshield; the soft plastic is never going to hurt the much harder glass.)
“What's up with that funky horizontal hanger on the bottom?”
The horizontal hanger allows the welded steel ring to sit perpendicular to the rock, which usually gives an easier rope pull after you rappel. If you had a normal vertical hanger at the bottom, the ring would lie flat against the rock which increases friction, not good.
“This causes tri-axial (3 direction) loading on the carabiner, that’s bad.”
Yes, technically the master point carabiner (see below) is being potentially loaded in three different directions. But, under realistic recreational climbing scenarios, any potential load is going to be very small, like 2-3 kN, and well within the capabilities of the carabiner.
I have a whole article on the issue of tri-axial loading, and Black Diamond did some testing on it. You can learn more here.
There are three basic uses for a vertical chain anchor: 1) rappel, 2) top rope, and 3) multi pitch. Let's look at a few possible rigging examples for each of these.
1 - Rappel
There are several ways to rig this. A convenient one is to clip a master point carabiner into the ring, and then have you and your partner clip to the master carabiner. This moves both tethers below the ring, which can make threading the rope through a bit easier.
That's a big benefit to vertical chain anchors. You don't have to build your own anchor with slings or a quad, or have any concern with clipping two tethers to two different non-redundant bolts.
Because of the single ring, you get zero twisting when you pull your rope. =^)
2 - Toprope
While vertical anchors are perhaps better suited for multi pitch and rappelling, you can of course use them for toproping. (While it's usually fine to lower the last person through the ring, typical climbing etiquette is that you don’t set up a top rope that directly weights the ring. Hopefully you know this already.)
Is someone rappelling the route while you're toproping? Consider this solution: be polite, take a break, and let them rappel on your rope. Generally, it's good practice to yield to the team that is coming down.
Top rope method #1: Clip two opposite and opposed carabiners onto the ring, clip the rope to the carabiners, and lower off. (If you're concerned about the whole load on the single ring, you could leave a quick draw on the next lower bolt, and run the rope through that as a backup.) But remember, that ring is rated at 50 kN.
Top rope method #2 (easy-to-clean): Clip the carabiner on the chain above the ring. Rig the rope through the ring and through the carabiner, and lower off. Here's a link to the procedure and videos on how to do this correctly.
All of the load goes to your carabiner, not the fixed hardware. The last person climbing the route cleans the carabiner and lowers off through the ring. This can be a good approach if the last person climbing doesn’t have the required experience to safely re-thread the rope through the ring and lower off. If you're doing this a lot, a steel carabiner can minimize the wear on your gear. Because the rope is already through the ring, the carabiner does not have to be locking.
Yes, the last person is being lowered through the fixed ring. This is generally considered the best practice, at least in most climbing areas in North America. But hey, if you prefer to rappel, you're welcome to do that instead.
Depending on anchor configuration, this could potentially twist your rope when you lower your partner. In the photo below, notice the carabiner is clipped to a chain link that lies flat against the rock. Doing this orients the carabiner 90°, so it's facing out, same as the ring. This minimizes twists when lowering.
With the whole anchor pretty much in a straight vertical line, you're unlikely to get much twisting no matter how you rig this. If the bolts were more offset, like around 45° angle, then twisting may be more likely to happen.
If you do have twists in your rope, here’s a great way to get them out.
3 - Multipitch
Note: In the next three photos, the extra rope between the leader tie in and the belay device is omitted for clarity.
One approach, maybe the simplest: clove hitch the leader to the ring and belay the second off the ring. No slings, no cordelette, no quad required.
“But wait”, I can hear some of you saying, “doesn't this obstruct the ring for anyone else who wants to rappel past you?” Not really. There's still room to thread the rope, and besides, the rappelling team doesn’t have to actually thread the ring. Learn more at this article.
The leader can also connect to one of the chain links.
Another option: clip a master point carabiner into the ring, and then add two additional locking carabiners to that for the leader’s connection and the belay.
If you have a spare HMS carabiner, this is a good way to go. It has a couple of benefits: 1) slightly less cluster and a bit more room to move around at the anchor; and 2) the ring is a bit more accessible for any other parties rappelling who may need to access it.
Finally, if you want to use the fixed point lead belay, this anchor is perfect for that. Here's one way to rig it.
And, after all that, if you’re happier with a quad . . . you can do that too!
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What are oval carabiners good for?
Do you think oval carabiners look chunky and old school? Well maybe, if that’s your entire rack. But, for some specialized uses, they still deserve a place on your harness.
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image: from climbing historian and big wall ace John Middendorf’s outstanding website of historical climbing gear, https://www.bigwallgear.com/p/first-carabiners-for-climbing-summary
An oval carabiner was the first shape that was widely available to modern recreational climbers. However, carabiner design has changed a lot over the years, and now we have LOTS of different styles.
Does that mean the oval is obsolete? Nope! They’re great in certain applications.
Why are oval carabiners useful?
Behaves nicely with boxy devices like a Petzl Tibloc or Micro Traxion, or a fixed gate pulley
Perfect for racking stoppers. The stoppers rotate nicely around the oval end, and don't get jammed up like they can on a D shaped carabiner.
Works well with a Grigri and other types of assisted braking devices (ABDs), generally avoiding cross loading.
Tie a Munter hitch on them, and the hitch flips nicely back-and-forth. (That's right, you don't need a pear-shaped HMS carabiner for a Munter hitch.)
Rotates through loaded anchors, pitons, clove hitches, and other attachment points; doing this can be a problem with some D / asymmetric carabiners.
If ovals are three-way loaded, they retain almost full strength, (tested up to about a 60 degree angle), see video below.
Great for aid climbing, when you often have more than one carabiner clipped to another.
Works nicely as a top rope master point, using three snapgate ovals opposite and opposed. Functionally the same as two lockers, gives a nice smooth lower, and maybe puts the wear and tear on less expensive ovals instead of your more $$ locking carabiners. Here's how to set that up.
Reasonably lightweight; about 60 grams.
Fairly inexpensive, compared to other specialized lockers.
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Big load on a bight knot? Try a butterfly
Is your bight knot going to take a BIG load? Consider using a butterfly instead of a figure 8 or an overhand. The butterfly is usually a lot easier to untie after it takes a heavy load.
There are three bight knots commonly used in climbing:
overhand
figure 8
butterfly
(Yep, I'm calling it a butterfly, and not an “alpine” butterfly. I don't see any need for the word “alpine”, and I like simplicity.)
If you're putting any significant load onto this knot, consider using the butterfly.
It's usually much easier to untie after being loaded than the other two, with the overhand usually being the most difficult. (Most big wall climbers, who regularly deal with heavily loaded knots, have known this trick for a long time.) In the photo below, we have a figure 8 on the pig, because that’s pretty much a permanent knot in your haul rope that stays there all the time.
Of course, “hard” or “easy” is subjective! Factors such as your finger strength, level of patience, whether your rope is old and crusty or new and slick, wet or dry, can all have an effect.
What about a bowline?
A bowline is also easy to untie after being loaded. However, it has a tendency to loosen if it's subject to repeated loading and unloading, and it also needs some sort of backup. Also, it's tricky to tie as a bight knot in the middle of the rope, as we're doing here.
So, in most recreational climbing applications, one of the three bight knots listed above is usually preferred.
Electromagnetic interference (EMI) and avy transceivers, from BD
Black Diamond published a very interesting study about the effects of common electronic devices and how they generally do not play well with avalanche transceivers. Here’s a link to their excellent article.
In January 2024, Black Diamond published an interesting study about how different electronic devices that we might carry in the mountains affect avalanche transceivers.
It's definitely worth a read. From their blog post:
“Various electronics often found in the backcountry were used in our test, including smart watches, GPS watches, smartphones, two-way radios, action cameras, satellite communication devices, electronic airbag packs, and even a snowmobile. The searching transceiver was held at 50cm from the torso using a static tether to help maintain the appropriate distance. Each item was then placed in a normal use position as noted below.
The goal was to determine how bad it might be to violate the 20/50 rule. To do so, many items were held closer than 50cm (i.e., heated gloves and smart watches). Each item was tested three times, and the average taken. We then calculated the reduction in range compared to a baseline with no other items present.”
“The takeaway here is that EMI is real, and it can have a significant impact on transceiver performance! And we can’t stress enough the importance of updating the firmware of your avalanche transceivers and electronic avalanche airbag packs.”
Don't pre-rig a rappel with a Grigri on top
The always terrific Petzl website has a specific caution against a pre-rigged rappel with a Grigri on top. Apparently, when the rope is loaded from below, occasional device failure can happen for the person above. Good news: there are some easy ways to eliminate this problem.
The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, is a technique where both partners rig their rappel device at the same time, usually with an extension. Here's a complete article on it. A pre-rigged rappel increases efficiency and (usually) reduces risk.
Increases efficiency: the moment the first person is down the second person can start.
(Usually) reduces risk: the last person gets a safety check.
However, there’s apparently an unusual situation where this might actually increase risk: when the top climber has a Grigri.
The Petzl website awards this a skull and crossbones, which always gets my full attention!
I’d never heard of this until recently (Dec. 2023) , so I want to give it a shout as a potential issue. Thanks to Alpinesavvy fan @timmyycedar for mentioning this to mementioning this to me.
Check out the diagram below from the (always awesome) Petzl website.
The example from Petzl, and the one I show here, uses two Grigris. But it seems to me that the exact problem would still be present no matter what type of device the lower person is using.
Also, there’s no mention of rope diameter. It also seems to me that a smaller diameter rope might be more prone to this problem, I really don't know.
Here’s the caution from Petzl against doing a stacked rappel with certain flavors of the Grigri (bold text mine).
“With the GRIGRI + from 2017 and on, and the GRIGRI from 2019 and on, unblocking and a consequent fall can occur if the rope is heavily loaded below the user. Unblocking can occur if the rope is loaded with a weight equal to or greater than that of the person rappelling on the GRIGRI.
Examples of dangerous situations:
Multiple people rappelling in sequence, GRIGRIs pre-installed on the rope. If the person waiting in turn to rappel has their GRIGRI pre-installed on the rope, it can be inverted (and thus unblocked) by the weight of the person rappelling below them. So it will not be operational when the second person wants to start their rappel.
Bottom belay: the person performing the belay maneuver must not hang on the rope.
Rescue from below: The rescuer must not ascend the rope of a person who is stuck on rappel.”
IMAGE: HTTPS://WWW.PETZL.COM/US/EN/SPORT/RAPPELLING-WITH-THE-GRIGRI?PRODUCTNAME=GRIGRI-PLUS
Apparently there are two other situations that can also cause Grigri failure. Check out the diagram below.
On the left, if someone gives an overly enthusiastic “firefighter belay” by putting their full weight on the rope, apparently that may cause Grigri failure.
Related to this, if someone is stuck on rappel and the climber at the bottom wants to ascend the rope, putting their full weight on it may cause Grigri failure.
IMAGE: HTTPS://WWW.PETZL.COM/US/EN/SPORT/RAPPELLING-WITH-THE-GRIGRI?PRODUCTNAME=GRIGRI-PLUS
OK, that's the doom and gloom stuff. Let's look at some simple ways to avoid this problem.
First off, this really only applies to descending a single strand of rope. It's pretty rare to do this in a normal climbing situation, so most people will never encounter this set up to begin with.
If one partner has a tube style device: set up your pre-rigged rappel so the first person down is always on the Grigri, and anyone else going down uses a tube device.
There are various other benefits for the first person down to use a Grigri, such as hands-free rope detangling, doing a pendulum if needed to reach an anchor off to the side, easily ascending the rope if needed, etc. Now we have one more reason to use this method.
If you MUST rappel single strand with two Grigris, there are other solutions.
Don't do a pre-rigged rappel, Easy!
If you do pre-rig, you can tie the rope to the anchor with a clove hitch (blue carabiner) , as shown below. This means the weight of rappeler #1 goes on the anchor, and not onto rappeler #2. This eliminate any chance of Grigri failure. Rappeler #2 removes the clove, cleans the blue carabiner, and rappels.
Here is a video clip showing how the failure actually happens. This was sent to me by @govanathon, thanks!
(Actual failure / device inversion starts about 1:50.)
Quad anchor - 240 cm sling with bowline on a bight
If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight.
The standard quad anchor works great for many anchor setups where you have two reliable bolts or ice screws. Why is the quad cool?
Good load distribution
Minimal extension
Fully redundant
Quick to set up and break down; no knots to untie at each anchor
Super strong (would you believe 40+ kN?!)
Two independent and load distributed master points, which can be very handy
To make a quad, you have several options of materials and length. The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky.
Modern sewn slings are a better choice. There are three lengths you could use for a quad: 120 cm, 180 cm, and 240 cm.
120 cm: too short, unless the anchors are very close to each other.
180 cm: the ideal for most cases, not too short and not too long.
240 cm: tied in a standard configuration is usually too long, putting the master point down low by your waist instead of up by your chest.
However, a 240 cm sling is a very handy piece of gear for lots of other things, and many people choose to carry that instead of a cordelette. You can sling it around a tree, you can equalize multi piece gear anchors, and if you use the clever rigging method shown here, it works great for a pair of bolts.
Rather than the standard method of tying an overhand or figure 8 on a bight to make your loops, instead tie a bowline on a bight. Advantages:
It uses up more material, which usually gives you a higher and more ergonomic master point. In the photo above, notice there are four strands on each anchor carabiner rather than the typical two.
A bowline on a bight is much easier to untie after loading, so at the end of the day you can easily untie your sling and give the material a rest.
This isn’t a standard climbing knot, but it's easy to tie once you get the hang of it. Here's a nice video that shows one way to do it.
A strong, simple and fast snow anchor
The T slot (aka deadman) anchor is usually a good choice when building a crevasse rescue anchor in snow. Here’s a quick enhancement that can double the strength.
Disclaimer: There is WIDE variability in the strength of snow anchors, due to factors like depth of the anchor, what you’re using for the deadman, temperature and water content of the snow, whether you stomp down (aka work harden) the snow between the anchor and the load, etc. A certain snow anchor flavor that tests to a certain strength in one location does not mean that result applies everywhere.
If you carry a picket, you have various options for building a snow anchor. With a very hard snow you can maybe use a vertical picket top clipped. With medium to hard snow, a vertical mid clip picket can work.
However, with softer snow, or if you choose not to carry a picket, about your only option is the “T slot” (aka deadman) anchor. This anchor can be made with gear like an buried ice axe, skis, or a backpack.
Here’s a way to (maybe?) double the strength of the T slot anchor, with a few seconds of work and one additional piece of gear: Add a vertical reinforcing placement to the horizontal placement.
image (used with permission) : https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/glacier-travel-snow-anchors/
This does a couple of good things:
It makes the horizontal placement much harder to pull out.
If the horizontal placement, like an ice axe, shifts a little bit under load, it can prevent the clove hitch (that's on the horizontal axe) from slipping.
(If you use a picket and girth hitch the middle hole for the horizontal piece, you don't have to worry about the connection point slipping.)
The typical method to beef up a snow anchor is to build an entirely separate one, and try to connect / equalize them with cord. This is certainly effective, but it can take a lot more time and gear (more cord and carabiners) to build, and will probably end up pretty much the same strength as this one.
Sounds good. How strong is it?
My pal Ryan Jenks at HowNOT2.com tested this. He got about 8 kN, which is pretty impressive! Compare this to a single horizontal buried picket, which he tested at about 4 kN.
Adding the vertical picket to reinforce the horizontal one pretty much doubled the strength of the anchor, at least in this one test.
Keep in mind this was in high water content snow in the Washington Cascades. This usually conpacts very well and make some reasonably strong anchors. Your mileage may vary.
Keep in mind that a typical crevasse rescue anchor will only need to hold less than the weight of the victim when they’re hanging. (The friction of the rope passing through the snow reduces the load on the anchor.) When hauling with a 2:1, if the pull strand is not redirected, the anchor should see about 2–3 kN at most. So, in the typical crevasse rescue scenario, loads on the anchor usually are fairly low which is a good thing.
I’ve seen quite a few studies of the strength of horizontal deadman anchors, but this is the only one that adds the vertical element. If anyone knows of other studies, please email me; I’d like to add those to this article.
A few snow anchor testing resources . . .
Here's a link to the British mountain rescue magazine from (I think) 2018. They got results that were different. Like I said, your mileage may vary.
If you really want to nerd out on snow anchors, here’s a webpage that summarizes most of the publicly available studies.
HowNOT2 video showing snow anchor pull test results. Horizontal picket about 6:00. Reinforced horizontal picket, about 6:35.
Screen grab from the above video, setting up the reinforced picket.
Finally, for a very deep dive into snow anchors, here is a nice presentation from the Mountain Rescue Association featuring snow anchor expert Art Fortini.
Innovative Gear - Aideer Climbing
Aideer Climbing is a one-man show, crafted by Olle Hjort in Stockholm Sweden. Olle makes soft good for aid climbing, big walls and some industrial use.
This section of my website highlights small companies, inventors, artists and other superb humans who make exceptional climbing-related gear.
If you know a company that wants to be on these pages, please let me know.
I don't get any sort of advertising fees / benefits / kickbacks from these pages. I simply want to showcase cool companies to a wider audience.
Occasionally these companies may give me a product to review. If that happens, I’ll tell you.
Listings are alphabetical.
Aideer Climbing - Olle Hjort
Aideer Climbing is a one-man show, crafted by Olle Hjort in Stockholm Sweden. Olle makes soft good for aid climbing, big walls and some industrial use.
Aider Climbing website.
Preferred way to connect and order is through Instagram, @aideerclimbing
Olle was kind enough to send me a pair of his aid ladders for review, and they are beautiful! Sturdy in all the right places, lightweight in the other places, and literally half the weight of my older workhorse ones.
(If you’re lucky, or ask nicely, he might even sew a cool Swedish flag on for you.)
Currently, Aideer offers the following products:
aid ladders (let’s not call them “etriers” - French for “stirrup” - anymore, okay?)
Russian aiders (VERY cool and hard to find!)
big wall gear sling
“Collector of Dropped Objects” (CODI), a sort of large hanging basket designed to be strung below people who work at heights so they don't drop stuff
A few of his schweeeeeet aid ladders, ready for shipping.
If you're ready for battle on your next steep, scary big wall, you might want a pair of Russian aiders. They are very different than the standard ladders shown above, and Olle is one of the few people who makes them.
More for industrial use, here is the CODI (Collector Of Dropped Objects). If you're doing industrial type work where you don't want to drop anything, hanging this below your job site could be a fine idea.
Innovative Gear: Avant Climbing Innovations
Avant Climbing Innovations, based in Flagstaff Arizona, and founded by Brent Barghahn, focuses on specialty gear for top rope and lead rope solo climbing.
This section of Alpinesavvy highlights small companies, inventors, artists and other superb humans who make exceptional climbing-related gear.
If you know a company that belongs on these pages, please let me know.
I don't get any sort of advertising fees / benefits / kickbacks from these pages. I simply want to showcase cool companies to a wider audience.
Occasionally these companies may give me a product to review. If that happens, I’ll tell you.
Listings are alphabetical.
Avant Climbing Innovations founder Brent Barghahn free climbing El Corazon (5.13), El Capitan.
Avant Climbing Innovations, based in Flagstaff Arizona, makes specialized gear focused on top rope solo and lead rope solo climbing.
Avant Climbing Innovations website
Avant Climbing Innovations Instagram, @avant_climbing_innovations
Brent’s website and blog, with nice articles and photos of his adventures
Avant Climbing Innovations was founded by Brent Barghahn. Brent, a product designer, professional climber and humble bad-ass, knows a thing or two about hard climbing on big walls. He has some very impressive free ascents on El Capitan, such as El Corazon, El Nino, and Golden Gate. He is also an leader in spreading the gospel of proper technique and gear for lead and top rope solo technique. Oh yeah, and he has a few patents as well!
Top rope solo neck lanyard - If you ever done top rope soloing, you might've tried the DIY method of some sort of DIY bungee cord thing around your neck. This adjustable neck lanyard works a lot better.
Snack Pack multi pitch storage pouch - If you want to leave your backpack on the ground, but still have some room for a few essentials like snacks, phone, windbreaker, and headlamp, check this out. It's basically a smartly designed chalk bag with a nice closure and zipper to store a few extra goodies; plus it has a phone tether.
Flex-Link Anti-Crossload Protector - Cross loading your carabiner is not a good thing, especially when you’re rope soloing. This clever device keeps this from happening, and it looks like it could be helpful in lots of cases other than rope soloing.
Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard
image: https://avantclimbing.com/
Snack Pack multi pitch storage pouch
image: https://avantclimbing.com/
Flex-Link - Anti-Crossload Protector
image: https://avantclimbing.com/
Learn more about Brent from these videos.
Great documentary video produced by Arc'teryx with Brent free climbing one of the hardest routes on El Capitan with Amity Warme.
An interview with Ryan Jenks of hotNOT2.com, with a deep dive into top rope solo technique.
Innovative Gear - Traverse Equipment
Traverse Equipment is Charlie Lane, out of Bellingham Washington. Charlie offers a cleverly designed backcountry ski repair kit that should be able to handle just about any repair. In addition, he has a video going over the kit, and their partner Cascade Mountain Ascents has a very detailed article about the kit components and how to use ‘em.
This section of Alpinesavvy highlights small companies, inventors, artists and other superb humans who make exceptional climbing-related gear.
If you know a company that belongs on these pages, please let me know.
I don't get any sort of advertising fees / benefits / kickbacks from these pages. I simply want to showcase cool companies to a wider audience.
Occasionally these companies may give me a product to review. If that happens, I’ll tell you.
Listings are alphabetical.
The Traverse Equipment ski repair kit
Traverse Equipment is Charlie Lane, out of Bellingham Washington. Charlie's main product: a very thoughtfully designed backcountry ski repair kit.
Traverse Equipment website
Traverse Equipment Instagram, @traverseequipment
You carry a first aid kit for your body. You also need a “first aid” kit for your skis. The proper tools, along with some occasional MacGyver-like creative repairs, can probably get you back to the trailhead, or maybe even continue a multi-day tour.
Not bringing a repair kit? You minor problem could suddenly become a major big deal.
Fortunately, Traverse Equipment has you covered - they sell a very refined ski repair kit that should cover most basic repairs. For longer tours you may want to take a few more things.
In addition to the kit:
Their research and development partner, Cascade Mountain Ascents, has an incredibly detailed repair article on their website that goes through every piece of equipment in the kit and talks about some ingenious ways to make some major repairs. Even if you have a kit already, I'm sure you'll learn a few new crafty tricks to fix your gear by reading this article.
Charlie has a nice YouTube video showing the purpose for everything in the kit, link below.