New from CalTopo - high resolution slope angle shading

If you’re new to CalTopo and want to learn the basics, start with this tutorial video.

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Note: this type of slope shading is made with an elevation model that may not show all relevant features and potentially hazardous avalanche slopes. It can be a useful tool for macro level trip planning, but is not accurate enough to completely assess potential avalanche hazard across all types of terrain.

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Slope angle shading is a very cool feature of CalTopo, the best backcountry mapping software. It’s handy for lots of different reasons, and we cover them in detail in this article.

• Canyoneers or photographers, looking for seldom-seen waterfalls?

• Backcountry skiers, looking for a low angle ascent and a slightly steeper downhill?

• Winter travellers looking to (hopefully) avoid avalanche slopes?

• Cross country hikers or mountaineers, looking for the path of least resistance?

Slope angle shading can help in all of these situations. Now, the digital mapping data that underlie the slope model is improved, and the resulting shading is much higher resolution.

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Here’s a comparison of the old and new slope angle shading, with the Disappointment Cleaver route (red line) on Mount Rainier. The top image is the older style shading, the bottom image is the newer one, using the higher resolution LIDAR data.

Pretty cool to see how the route picks it’s way up through the path of least resistance. You can use this feature to plan a cross country travel route in CalTopo for a place you've never visited! (Of course, glaciers can change on a daily basis and you should never fully rely on a model like this, but it’s a great start.)

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Caveat: This new data set does not cover all of the United States, and is sadly lacking in many parts of the western US, but hopefully that will be improved in the next few years as additional LIDAR data are collected. See the data coverage map below. (Sorry Wyoming, Montana, and Sierra Nevada.) Good news, you are highly unlikely to be caught by an avalanche in Louisiana. =^)

Below is a copy/paste from the CalTopo website, Dec 20 2019.

http://caltopo.com/about/2019/12/20/high-resolution-elevation-data/

“CalTopo first launched the slope angle shading layer 7 years ago, and since then it has become a mainstay tool for backcountry trip planning. Today we're updating the layer to incorporate high-resolution LIDAR data from the USGS's 3DEP program. Where available (see coverage map), this provides significantly higher resolution, even allowing you to identify trails from relief shading. As additional coverage becomes available we will add it to this layer.

While the LIDAR data is very high resolution, it should still not be relied on as a definitive source of truth. Beyond possible errors or accuracy issues with the dataset or our processing of it, the surface angle on top of a snowpack may not match the bare-ground angle underneath. Carefully assess and evaluate any terrain that you are traveling in, and confirm your observations instead of relying solely on maps.

This update is now live on the web! It will be released soon on iOS and Android. Offering online access for free, and offline downloads with a CalTopo subscription. The significant increase in resolution means the offline downloads are larger in size than previous elevation data. Be cautious downloading using mobile data and storing on your phone, storage may go quickly.

As with previous expansions of the slope angle shading layer to Canada and Alaska, the high resolution dataset is not available to third party apps that license CalTopo's pre-rendered layers like Gaia GPS and Backcountry Navigator. You can only access the layer via CalTopo's website and app; we encourage you to download the new app to use this layer in the field.”

“Rock shoe rejuvenator” - rubbing alcohol

Rock climbers love that incredible stickiness from a brand new pair of rock shoes.  But when dust, chalk, grime etc. get slowly ground into the rubber, it seems like you never quite get back the “grip-tion” of new shoes. 

Well, you can, or at least get pretty close. Wipe down your shoe rubber some rubbing alcohol. Do this outside, as the fumes can be strong. A rag works better than paper towels.

Some gentle buffing with 80 grit sandpaper or a wire brush can help rough up the surface and make your shoes a bit stickier as well. Give it a try before your next hard boulder problem or red point attempt; every little bit of grip helps!

Safety for leader #2 on sport routes

Heidi and Hans are out for a day of sport climbing, and they both want to lead all the pitches. They don’t have a stick clip. Heidi, being the stronger climber, feels fine with leading without the first bolt being clipped.

But Hans is leading at his limit. He wants to reduce his risk by having the first bolt clipped, eliminating any chance of a ground fall. 

Here’s a simple way to do that, with the one caution that you need to have a bit of extra rope.

Say Heidi leads the route first. She climbs the route, clipping all the bolts, clips the anchor, and calls for a take and lower. 

On her way down, she clips a quickdraw to her belay loop and to the rope running through the bolts; this is known in some circles as “tramming”. Doing this keeps her close to the rope and gear, which is especially helpful on traversing and/or overhanging routes.

Note the quickdraw clipped to the climber’s harness and the rope in this nice diagram from Petzl. Perfect tramming technique!

image: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Recovering-quickdraws-in-an-overhang-while-descending

She calls for a brief take at each bolt and removes all the quickdraws, except the one on the lowest bolt.

When Heidi gets to the lowest quickdraw, she does not clean it, but instead keeps lowering to the ground. Doing this keeps the rope through the lowest quickdraw.

image: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Recovering-quickdraws-in-an-overhang-while-descending

Heidi unties, but keeps the rope clipped through her quickdraw. Hans pulls the rope. The rope zings through the top anchor and falls to the ground, but now it’s clipped to the first bolt. This gives a “toprope” to the lowest bolt for Hans on his lead, with no chance of a ground fall.

Using this technique can be more helpful in climbing areas that often have hard moves right off the ground, or have first bolts that are especially high, or both. (Smith Rock, I'm looking at you!)

Using this “tramming” method guarantees that the rope end will fall to the ground, every time. If the route is fairly steep, without any ledges, shrubs, or anything else the rope may get hung up on, you can probably skip doing the tramming. Just leave the rope clipped to the first quick draw, have the belayer pull the rope, and the end should fall to the ground and stay clipped to the lowest bolt.

But keep in mind, if you do this, and the end of the rope does not cleanly fall to the ground, you're probably going to have to pull it through that lowest draw, and it won't be clipped anymore, which defeats the whole purpose.

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Safety notes:

Caution #1: Doing this requires you have enough extra rope that is twice the distance from the ground to the first bolt. If your route is a real rope stretcher, or the first bolt is really high, this technique might not work.

Caution #2: The belayer should always be tied into the end of the rope, or at the very least have a knot in the end to have a “closed rope system”. This technique takes a bit of extra rope, and you definitely do not want to drop your leader. One more reason to get a 70 meter rope . . .

Remove rope twists with an ATC

This tip and video come from AMGA Certified Rock Guide Cody Bradford.

While sadly Cody is no longer with us, his Instagram continues to stay up and is a great source of tips like this, check it out.

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Did you unwrap a new rope in a hurry? Lowered off an anchor with quicklinks lying flat against the rock? Munter hitch rappel? Or just have some random rope weirdness? Twists (aka pigtails) in your rope can come from a lot of different sources, but no matter how they got there, they’re a hassle and you need to get them out.

Here's a simple and fast way to decluster your spaghetti pile.

• Clip a carabiner and a tube style belay device (here the DMM Pivot, my fave) to a bolt, some rock pro, tree branch, whatever, about head high.

• Flake the rope onto the ground.

• When you get to the tangled part, feed the rope through the belay device and carabiner, and pull the rope through. Give the twisted side of the rope a few shakes and shimmies as needed.

As the rope is forced through the small diameter of the belay device, the twists move to the end of the rope and should work themselves out. If your rope is REALLY messed up, you might need to repeat this.  

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Pigtails in your robe can be more than a minor annoyance. It’s especially important to remove them when you're pulling a rappel rope. If you don't, the strands can twist together or other weirdness, making your rope very difficult to pull, or maybe even impossible. Check out this description and photo from @aledallo91.

“. . . a crunch created during the recovery of a rope on a broken descent on two anchors that forced me to abandon it, as it was impossible to recover from the intermediate stop. Then I went back up to save my baby. ❤️

This ball was formed by itself in recovering the rope, due to the twisting of the last meters of the same.

Experience that teaches the importance of checking that the rope is always well stretched and free of slots and twists before attempting the retrieve.”

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Like most climbing techniques, it’s a better show than a tell. Here’s a short video from Cody showing how it’s done.

See the correct declination in CalTopo

(If you want to learn the basics of using CalTopo, start with this tutorial video.)

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Magnetic declination is the angular difference between true north (North Pole) , and magnetic north, which is where the red end of the compass needle points. This changes depending on where you are in the world, and it also changes over time. If you’re using an older map, the declination printed in the margin might well be incorrect.

(If you want the full scoop on declination, watch my video here.)

So, whenever you're using a compass, it's important to know the correct declination for your local area. One good way to do this is to check the website magnetic-declination.com, as we cover in this article.

Here's another way. A helpful little feature I just discovered in the best backcountry mapping software, CalTopo, is hiding in plain sight at the bottom of the CalTopo screen - the correct magnetic declination for (I think) the center of your screen.

(I've been a fanatic CalTopo user for many years and never noticed this before today. Who knows how long it's been there and I just never saw it? =^)

Here are a few examples. (Depending on your web browser, it might look slightly different than this; I’m using Chrome on an iMac.)

Declination for Seattle, about 15° east.

Boston? About 15° west declination. (Don't worry, that won't help you in Boston, you're still going to get lost driving there. =^)

How about New Zealand, a country with some pretty extreme compass declination because it's fairly close to the south magnetic pole? 24 degrees east.

Finally: If you print a map in CalTopo, the correct declination is shown in a diagram on the bottom right of the PDF file.

How to transfer GPX files from Google Drive to the GaiaGPS app

Upfront disclaimer: this is really not much of a climbing tip. It's more of a computer geek tip, but if you have a collection of GPX track files in Google Drive, you might find it helpful. We’ll get back to our regular climbing tips after this one, I promise.

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It's handy to keep a collection of good GPX track files in Google Drive, because you can access them from pretty much anywhere to either use on your phone or share them with your hiking or climbing partners. GPX files are just small text files and hardly take up any room, so when you find one that you think you might have a use for in the future, download it and save it! (Even if it's unlikely that you will go on the trip, you might be able to share it with someone else and help them.) Personally, I have hundreds of GPX tracks on my Google Drive, organized in folders for climbs, hikes, mountain bike rides, road bike rides, ski tours, etc.

However, most people do not find it very intuitive to move the files from Google Drive into a backcountry GPS phone app such as Gaia GPS.

But, like most computer related things, it’s easy once you know how. Here are two ways to do it, one method via a desktop computer, and one method all on your phone. (These instructions are for the iPhone, which is what I have, Android folks probably can do something similar.)

To do this, you’ll need:

• a Google account with Google Drive

• a folder on Google Drive with some GPX files in it

• an account at GaiaGPS.com

• the Gaia GPS app loaded to your smartphone.

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Method 1 - Desktop / laptop computer

Step 1 - From a desktop / laptop computer, go to Google Drive, navigate to the GPX file you want, right click, download to your computer.

Step 2 - Go to GaiaGPS.com account, click your username or photo in the top right corner, and choose “Upload” from the drop-down menu, screen grab below. Navigate to the GPX file you just downloaded, and select it. (Personally, I do not find this website very intuitive to use, so I thought I’d spell out how to upload a file.)

Step 3 - Open the Gaia GPS phone app. Go to Settings > Account, and toggle the “Sync/Backup” off and back on. Doing this should synchronize all the geo-data in your GaiaGPS.com account, including the track file you just uploaded, with your phone. (The GPX track you just uploaded will probably appear in Saved > Folders on your app.)

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Method 2 - Google Drive on your phone to Gaia GPS on your phone

Step 1 - Open the Google Drive app on your phone, navigate to the GPX file you want to use, and tap the “three dots” icon after the file name.

Tap “Open In”. This downloads the file to your phone and gives you an option of several apps in which to open it.

Scroll sideways if needed and select “Copy to Gaia GPS”. This should launch the app and import the file. To see your file, tap Saved > Folders.

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Warning, computer nerd stuff only, but it could be useful…

Occasionally, Gaia GPS has a hard time importing / uploading a GPX file direct from Google Drive. This is often because of an “XML “ tag in the first line of the file. Sometimes when Google sees this XML code, the file is not recognized as being a GPX and you are not given the option of the Gaia app to open it.

There are two workarounds for this that I’ve found.

Workaround #1 is to use method one above,: download the GPX file to your desktop, and then upload it to your account at GaiaGPS.com.

Workaround #2 is a little more involved. Open the GPX file in a text editor, and it should look something like the file below (which is a small one of about 10 waypoints.)

Notice the highlighted text in the very first line? Delete all the text between the <brackets> plus the brackets. Save as a new file name, move it back to Google Drive, and it should work fine Google Drive to your Gaia app using the “Open In” method above.

Google maps to GPX file with MapsToGPX.com

Thanks to my friend and expert boondock backroad navigator Daniel Mick for this tip. 

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Navigation on a hike or climb is more than what you do with your feet. Driving to an obscure trailhead can sometimes be the navigational crux of the whole trip. Mapping apps work great in town when your destination has an address, but what if you're looking for a trailhead or campground? 

If you have the latitude longitude coordinates of a trailhead (or anything else) you can copy/paste the coordinates into Google maps and get driving directions and a map to the trailhead. (Learn how to find lat long coordinates for anywhere at this article.)

If you have decent cell coverage, this should be all you need. But in more remote areas, Google maps sometimes falls short, and you may want to take this extra step of following a GPX track instead.

Below, learn how to create a GPX track file from a Google map. (Like most things in life, it's easy once you know how.)

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Why is a GPX track an improvement over the normal driving directions in Google maps? 

Outside of cell phone coverage, Google maps can do some strange things. The map detail can be significantly reduced, even if you download the map. Google maps has no terrain or contours shown, so it can be trickier to see your precise location. 

However, once you have a GPX track of your driving route, and a quality GPS app on your phone like Gaia GPS, you can choose whatever map base layer desired (topo, satellite, Forest Service, Open Street Map) you like. You can annotate maps with additional navigation notes, such as good car camping spots, locked gates, private property, etc.

You can also record a track of your route when you’re driving. This can confirm your exact location, which fork you took on that last intersection, and keep a record of any change in your route (locked gates, washouts, logging road change, etc.)

If you find yourself driving to a lot of remote trailheads far away from cell phone coverage, this might be a good navigation trick to have in your toolbox. This might look a bit complicated when you first read about it, but after you get the hang of it it really takes just a few minutes.

For the example below, we’ll use driving to El Dorado Peak, a popular climb in the North Cascades in Washington.

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Here’s how to do it.

Step 1 - Find the latitude / longitude coordinates of your trailhead.

Probably the easiest way to find the coordinates of a trailhead is to have a GPX file of the entire hiking or climbing route. Import this GPX file in CalTopo, notice where one end of the track reaches a road, right click at that point, choose New > Marker, and copy the coordinates that appear in the box in the lower right corner.

(Note: There are three different formats of latitude longitude coordinates. By far the easiest one to deal with is called decimal degree coordinates, which look something like this: 45,1234, -122,1234.)

For example, the El Dorado Peak trailhead has lat/long coordinates of: 48.4927, -121.1234

Step 2 - Copy and paste these coordinates into the Google Maps search box. Click Enter.

Step 3 - Click “Directions”. This should give you driving directions from your current location to the trail head.

(Tip - If you don't need directions right from your front door, you can click and drag the little dot at one end of the direction line to a new location. Below, I moved it from Portland to Seattle to simplify things.)

Step 4 - Click the “3 horizontal bar / More” icon in the top left corner.

Step 5 - Click “Share or Embed map”

Step 6 - Copy the "Link to share” URL

Open a new browser tab. Go to “mapstogpx.com”.

Paste the Google directions “Link to share” URL into the box.

Click “Let’s Go”. This should download a GPX file of the Google driving directions.

Open caltopo.com and import the GPX file. It should draw correctly, as seen below.

Make any edits or additions to the driving route, such as locked gates, camping or meeting spots, sections of rough road, any known closures or detours, etc.

When you're all done, export the GPX file from CalTopo and save it to your computer.

Now, you can put the GPX file onto your phone or GPS device for confident navigation outside cell coverage. If you use Gaia GPS, which is my favorite backcountry GPS app, the easiest way to get the file to your phone is to go to Gaia GPS.com, click your username in the top right corner, and choose “Upload” from the drop-down menu. This will sync the file from GaiaGPS.com to your phone app.

Finally, here's what the track looks like after importing it to my Gaia GPS phone app. It’s a perfect track to follow to the trailhead, even without cell coverage.

View snow levels and your route in Google Earth

Thanks to Alpinesavvy reader Lucas Norris for introducing me to this great tip.

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Upfront disclaimer, this article is generally for people who are pretty geeky about maps. Hopefully you’re one of them. =^)

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In a previous article, we covered how to download a map with real time snow depths in the US and part of Canada. This is a pretty handy tool for trip planning, but there's potential to make it even better.

What if you could see this snow depth data overlaid onto your actual drawn route, AND in the 3-D splendor of Google Earth? Turns out you can. Here's how to do it.

Tip - I have not tried this in the web browser version of Google Earth, only on Google Earth Pro, which is free software you can download onto your desktop computer. I recommend doing this in Google Earth Pro.

For this example, we’ll be using the Wonderland Trail around Mount Rainier.

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Step 1 - Get a GPX track file of your intended route. We cover how to get track files for climbing at this article, and for hiking at this article. You can find a track for the Wonderland trail at the “Pacific NW Long Hiking Routes” section right here at Alpinesavvy.

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Step 2 - Convert the GPX track file to a KML file, a type of file that plays well with Google Earth. One easy way to do this is to go to caltopo.com, import your GPX file, and then export it as a KML file. Use the Import and Export menu bars at the top of the screen.

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Step 3 - Import your KML file to Google Earth. Launch Google Earth. Double click or drag and drop the KML file into Google Earth. It should draw up as a red line and look something like this. (Yes, pretty damn cool!)

Step 4 - Get the snow data. Go to this website.

https://www.nohrsc.noaa.gov/earth/

You probably want the most recent data, which will be the top of the left column, under “Snow Analysis Overlays.” In the image above, that would be the link for November 18. (You can also see historical data under the “Archive” link at the very bottom.)

This will download a KMZ (another filetype that plays well with Google Earth) file of the snow data to your hard drive. Double click on this or drag and drop to open in Google Earth.

Very cool! This is the real time snow cover over the entire United States and most of southern Canada. (As I write this in mid November 2018, you can see it's been a very light snow year so far in the western United States.)

Step 5 - Zoom into Mt Rainier. With the snow depth level data loaded and a KML file of your route also loaded, your screen should look something like this.

It appears it if you wanted to get in a late November hike in 2019 of the Wonderland Trail, you should be able to do it with hardly any snow, kind of a rarity here in the Northwest.

Thoughts on redundancy in climbing anchors

This article was written with editorial assistance from Richard Goldstone, thanks Richard!

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Redundancy in anchors, while a good maxim for most climbers in most cases, is a situational and not an absolute rule.

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One of many single piece, non redundant anchors on the Matterhorn. Photo by Dale Remsberg.

Single point, non redundant anchor on the matterhorn. photo: Dale Remsberg

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“Good judgment comes from experience. Experience often comes from surviving bad judgment.”

Will Rogers

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One of the core concepts of anchor building is redundancy - if any single component were to fail, the entire anchor wouldn’t fail. This mandate has been around for a long time for a good reason, because it's arguably the single best thing relatively newer climbers can do as a buffer against the mistakes of inexperience. The sketchier the situation, the more redundancy counts. When in doubt, double up isn’t a bad rule to live by. If you have the gear and the time, do it.

• Sliding X anchor? Not redundant. If that sling gets cut, adios.

• Statically equalized cordelette style anchor? Perfectly redundant, if any part of the sling fails, the rest of the anchor still works.

However, outside of anchor construction, climbing has many mission critical components that are not redundant.

• Most of us climb on one rope

• Pretty much every harness has one belay loop (Yes, it's doubled over and sewn, but it's still one piece of webbing)

• We belay and rappel with one carabiner, with one belay device

• We clip the one bolt/hanger with one carabiner/draw as the first clip on a sport route, and would deck if it fails

You get the idea. Why do we accept so many potential “single points of failure” in many parts of the system, yet demand it always be a component of our anchors?

The answer is, it doesn’t always have to be. Rather than being a mandate for every anchor, all the time, think of redundancy as a concept that applies in varying degrees to varying situations. It’s overall a good idea, and you should never be faulted for doing it, but it’s a situational, and not absolute, rule.

IFMGA Guide Dale Remsburg writes: “The idea of redundancy comes from pieces in the rock, not the links or tools we use to connect them.”

Keep in mind, creating redundancy comes at a cost of time, or gear, or both. Mostly, that’s a good tradeoff to make. Other times, perhaps not.

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A fundamental principle of economics (and many other aspects of life, including anchors) is the law of diminishing returns, which, in econ-speak, means that adding additional factors of production eventually results in smaller increases in output. Say that it takes one builder one year to build a house. So, if you have 365 builders, can you build a house in one day? Of course not, because after a certain point, the extra production (builders) result in lower output (less work getting done because they are tripping over each other).

And yes, this can apply to building anchors. Continuing to add “production” (additional slings, backups, double locking carabiners, etc.) at some point do not significantly increase your “output” (safety margin), so it's probably not so smart to keep doing it. Of course, the question becomes, where do you cross that point? There's no firm answer, but here's one way to think about it mathematically.

Say that the odds of failure of an anchor sling are one in 1,000. If you backup that sling with another, the theoretical odds of anchor failure become 1,000 x 1,000, or one in 1 million. Add a third sling? The theoretical odds of failure are 1,000 x 1,000 x 1,000, or one in 1 billion.

What's your acceptable level of risk? If you're feeling good with one in 1,000, then going to one in 1 million (let alone 1 billion) is probably not worth doing.

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Another broad component of anchors is having proper context in anchor photos/examples. This gets more into the situational judgment of when redundancy is more important. It's tricky to simply show a photo of an anchor and ask if it's acceptable or not. The slightly snarky yet truthful answer is, “It depends! Some broader context questions might be:

• Is the anchor for a multi pitch lead belay, top rope anchor or a rappel anchor? Loads vary a LOT between these. Peak force on a rappel anchor, 2-3 kN; theoretical max force on a lead anchor, about 9kN. (Source)

• How difficult is the pitch below or above, and what’s the skill level of the climbers?

• Is it a part of multi pitch climb or the top of a climb?

• Is there a chance of rock or ice fall that might hit the anchor?

• Is it a casual day at your local crag, or are you trying to do a remote 15 pitch alpine route?

And so on.

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Let’s examine that last point - that of speed/efficiency. When people cut corners on anchor building, the usual rationale is that it saves time and/or uses less equipment. Let's be honest though, the requirements for “speed” on a relaxed three pitch climb on a sunny day at your local crag (where time, weather, and daylight are not major issues) is minimal. On a casual route with no real need to hurry, eliminating redundancy from an anchor because it saves you a few minutes is not a very compelling argument.

How about a long, committing, 15 pitch alpine mountaineering route? There, shaving off a few seconds wherever you can might become more important, because the time savings multiply over the course of a big day.

Some people always seem to be in speed mode, striving to do everything the quickest way possible. If that works for you, great. But, for most of the rest of us, and especially for newer climbers, safety should always be a priority over speed.

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Let's have a look at a few anchors that question the concept of redundancy. How do you feel about them? Consider the trade-offs in time, gear or both to make the anchor “textbook” redundant.

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Rappel anchor

One tree, one sling, one carabiner. Every part of this anchor is non-redundant.

However, each of these three components is vastly stronger than any possible rappel load, which at most, even with terrible rappel technique, is never going to exceed 3 kN.

• The tree is well rooted and stout enough. (Some folks use “5 & alive” for tree anchors - at least 5 inches in diameter, and alive.)

• Some brand new 1 inch webbing (rated about 18 kN) tied in a well-dressed water knot with good long tails. The webbing is rubbing on tree bark, not the sharp edge of a rock.

• Snapgate carabiner (rated 22 kN) left behind for the rope connection, gate taped shut for extra security (aka cheapskate locker). Extra points for using pirate hockey tape.

So, whaddya think? Would you rap on it? Why or why not? If not, what would you change / add so you’d feel comfortable?

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How about this anchor? It’s a Fixe PLX/Duplex anchor, standard in many parts of Europe and Canada, but not so common in many parts of the USA. Everything is stainless steel, the rings are 10 mm thick, and the whole thing is rated at 30 kN.

How about that bottom ring? The gear testing wizards at HowNot2.com tested a couple of these. One broke at around 90 kN, the other broke around 60 kN! That is miles stronger than your rope, your belay device, your belay carabiner, and all those other single points listed above. If you're happy with those single points, why not be happy with this?

This is an anchor that can leave redundancy advocates scratching their noggin. Hmm, what do I do with this mishmash of hardware? Am I supposed to clip just that ONE ring at the bottom?! That’s not redundant, if it fails, YGD! (You’re Gonna Die).

Redundancy advocates might just ignore the chains and ring, and rig this with a long runner clipped to the bolt hangers. Remember, it's probably totally fine if you choose to do this, but it’s not the intended nor most efficient way to use this style of anchor.

Here’s an Instagram video posted by AMGA Certified Rock Guide Cody Bradford using this exact style of anchor. Cody clips a single large locking carabiner to the ring making a master point, then clips two carabiners onto that, one for his clove hitch and one to belay his partner. Yep, everything off the one ring. (And then everything off of one yellow carabiner.)

Not textbook redundant, right? What do you think about this anchor set up? What would you do with anchor hardware like this if you had to belay up your partner?

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Here’s another example. I first saw this anchor on the Facebook feed of Dale Remsberg, an IFMGA Certified Guide and technical director of the American Mountain Guide Association. (So yeah, Dale knows his stuff.) It's a photo he took of an anchor he built while guiding a client, and put it on Facebook to start a discussion about, guess what, redundancy. (For context, it’s on a large ledge, the pitch below is an easy 5.7ish, and there is no risk of rock fall from above.)

image: Dale Remsberg - https://www.instagram.com/p/BxH139Tj1M5/

What do you think of this?

At first glance, redundancy advocates would dismiss this immediately. A basket hitched sling has zero redundancy; if it gets cut or fails, immediate anchor failure and YGD!

Technically true, but how would this sling possibly fail? It's running around tree bark, not any sort of sharp rock. There is zero risk of rockfall from above impacting the sling. The only way it could fail for is for it to physically break, something that has pretty much never happened in the history of rock climbing outside of the ever awesome Sly Stallone movie, Cliffhanger. (Readers, please correct me on this last sentence if I’m mistaken.)

One approach to make this anchor redundant is to tie a knot in the sling. Maybe so, but what's the trade-off? You might barely have enough sling material to make the knot . . . or perhaps you wouldn't. You also weaken the sling by tying a knot. You also take the time to tie the knot, and probably a longer time to untie it, which if it gets weighted, could be a hassle. (Side note: could be a great place for a girth hitch at the master point.)

Which is more important, having the full strength of the runner, or weakening it by tying a knot which creates redundancy? Oh, and there’s just one tree branch there, that's certainly not redundant. What about that? 

Now, I saved that's the best for last. Here's one that’ll give redundancy advocates nightmares. (And to be honest, I’ve never seen one of these in real life and I'm not super excited about it either . . . )

How about ONE SINGLE BOLT?!

Here’s a screen grab from a video, link below. From the video: “( . . the anchor can) . . . in some instances be a single large glue in bolt, which is the only anchor at the anchor point.”

How are you going to make this redundant? Answer is, you probably can't.

image : screen grab from: https://youtu.be/1r7hIZREJoQ?t=

Now, before you start thinking this is a 20 year old photo from East Boondockistan, this video comes courtesy of the excellent (if awkwardly titled) “Safety Academy Lab Rock” video tutorial series, produced by the well-regarded German company Ortovox, and backed by Petzl and the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (in German, “VDBS”). So, while if Americanos like me may not have any personal experience with it, the fact that it’s featured in an instructional video made by VDBS I’d say give it a fair bit of cred.

And no, you don't truly know the quality of the steel, the length of the bolt, the type of adhesive used to glue it into the rock, etc. But, a properly placed long glue in bolt like this has a UIAA minimum standard downward pull of 25kN, and have actually tested up to 50(!) kN, which makes it about the strongest component you'll pretty much ever encounter in climbing (right up there with the huge master point ring in the Fixe anchor above.) So, the short answer is yes, you can probably rely on this single point of connection. (But, in all honesty, as an American climber raised with the mantra of redundancy, I would not be overjoyed to discover this as my only connection to the rock.)

But hey, if you find this at the top of the first pitch and you don't like it, you can always rappel off and go climb somewhere else, right? :-)

Below is the whole video; see the single point anchor part starting at 0:40.

(And the fixed point belay? We’ll cover that soon in another Alpinesavvy article.)

And, for a little historical perspective, here’s one of many single piece anchors on the iconic Matterhorn, photo by Dale Remsberg.

• Stout? Looks like it.

• Used by probably tens of thousands of climbers over decades, most of them professional guides? Yes.

• Redundant? Nope.

anchor on the matterhorn. photo: Dale Remsberg

CalTopo - Use the “Bearing Line” tool as a peakfinder

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(If you want to learn the basics of using CalTopo, start with this tutorial video.)

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One of the eternal things climbers love to argue about sitting on a sunny mountain top is the game of “What's that peak?”

Now, you could use a clever smart phone tool such as the app “PeakFinder”, but here’s another method.

1. Take a compass bearing from where you are to the mountain top (or other landscape feature, like a lake.) If you just have your smartphone, there should be a compass app on that. Take a screen grab to remember the bearing.

2. When you come home, open up CalTopo.com on your desktop, Right click the location where you took the bearing, and choose New > Bearing Line.

3. Enter the bearing and distance in the dialog box. Usually you don’t know how far away the peak is, so enter a huge distance, like 100 miles.

CalTopo will draw a line from the start location on the bearing and distance you specified. If it runs through (or close to) a major mountain, you have your answer.

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Here's a recent real life example. A friend of mine who lives in Bend Oregon took a walk to the top of Pilot Butte one evening, a local high point in town. Far off in a general SW direction, he saw the tip of a mountain pointing up that he had never noticed before. What could that be? He took a compass bearing to it, and the resulting CalTopo bearing line map looked like the top of this page.

Answer: Mt Thielsen.

Use 2 carabiners to fix a broken backpack waist belt

Breaking the buckle on your backpack hip belt is pretty common, and can be a rather serious problem.

Here’s a very crafty way to fix this, courtesy of Alpinesavvy reader Andy Sorenson. (Andy happens to be a mechanical engineer and product designer, which sound like the perfect skills to have when you break something in the woods. Connect with Andy at mindsparkdesign.com.)

Arrange two carabiners as shown below, thread the webbing through them, and cinch down. The friction from the carabiners holds the webbing snug. (Depending on the width and slickness of your webbing, your mileage may vary; it worked fine for me. )

While this works as a temporary repair, having an inexpensive and lightweight spare buckle in the repair kit is a fine idea if you’re on a longer trip/expedition.

Make a sling anchor with just one carabiner

This tip comes from AMGA Certified Rock Guide Cody Bradford.

While sadly Cody is no longer with us, his Instagram continues to stay up and is a great source of tips like this, check it out.

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Note - The following tip is intended for more advanced climbers to add to the toolbox, and not meant as standard practice. Use carabiners when possible to attach a runner to bolts/chains/gear.

Someday in your climbing career, you’ll need to build an anchor after you’ve pretty much run out of carabiners.

If you have just one sling (either a double length/120 cm or a single length/60 cm) and one carabiner for the master point, you (might be) in business.

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Note / disclaimer:

This example is on a bolted anchor with rap rings. The rings give a nice rounded metal edge and is bomber strong. While you could get away with it, it's not best practice to girth hitch a runner directly into a bolt hanger or to a stopper cable. If you do this and catch any sort of significant fall on the runner, inspect it carefully and possibly retire it. On the other hand, testing has shown that hitching a sling to a stopper cable can hold between about 8 kN and 12 kN, which is probably more than you think. Can a bolt hanger be much worse than that? So, like I said, something for the advanced climber’s toolbox, and not for standard practice. See the last photo at the bottom of the page for what you generally do NOT want to do.

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Girth hitch a double length runner through one of the bottom rings, here the left. Try to get the runner’s stitching close to the girth hitch.

Pass the other end of the runner through the other ring, here the right.

Bring the loops together and clip your master point carabiner like so.

and tie it off with an overhand knot, done.

and here’s a video from AMGA Guide Cody Bradford showing how it’s done. (Note that Cody is using Metolius rappel hangers, which have a larger, rounded, sling/rope friendly edge than a regular bolt hanger.)

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How strong is this?

I posted a similar set up to this on Instagram, and got a fair amount of disparaging comments about girth hitch weakening the sling, never put a knot in Dyneema, Yer Gonna Die (YGD), this is stupid, blah blah blah.

So, I visited my gear breaking buddy Ryan at How NOT2, and we tested it.

Well, it did break . . . the steel carabiner, at 31 kN!

That's pretty crazy so I'm gonna say it again. The steel carabiner broke before the sling! Case closed, #MoreThanSuperGoodEnough.

Here's the video from HowNOT2 to showing the testing.

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This can also work if you have two pieces that are vertically offset, or if one is a piton. Note the girth hitch at the master point. This example comes from a nice PDF file showing some European style anchor techniques, made by the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (“Verband Deutscher Berg und Skiführer” or “VDBS”).

Supposedly, this style of anchor is more common in the south Tirol / Dolomites. In this area, the rock is often fractured or heavily featured and there's often fixed fixed gear. Using slings like this to connect directly to pitons and rings means there’s less chance of a carabiner being loaded sideways over an edge.

image: Standplatzlogik VDBS 2019 - Ausbildungsstandard VDBS & Alternativen

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Other rigging options - chains and a single length / 60 cm runner

You can also do this with a single length/60 cm runner. But you won’t be able to tie it off with an overhand knot as shown above, because it's too short.

One option is to make a girth hitch at the master point, which uses less sling material than an overhand knot. (Don't freak out about this, a girth hitch is fine to use at the master point. We cover it extensively at this tip.)

Or, even easier, if the chains are long enough, you might be able to clip both of them with the single big locker and have that be your Masterpoint. Yes, it's cool to do this and don't worry about three-way loading, we cover that in this article.

Oh, and on your next lead, bring a couple extra carabiners for the anchor, will you? When your partner arrives with some extra gear and freaks out about the anchor you built, feel free to add a some carabiners from their rack if it makes them happy. =^)

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If you happen to face this situation with only hangers and no chains/rings, it's still doable, but WAY Less Than Ideal. Please don't rig an anchor like this unless you really have to. Going straight through the bolt hangers is not the greatest. You may want to: 1) Check the sling after you’re done and retire if needed; 2) Brace the belay if you can with your body and belay from your belay loop; 3) Rebuild this with proper carabiners once your partner gets to the belay.

and sheesh, bring more gear with you next time, will ’ya?!

mtcams.net - Time lapse webcams of iconic mountains

Mountain webcams can provide real time images of recent storm activity, snow cover, and sun/shade on different features at different times of the day. This info might help you make a decision of your preferred route and equipment, and give you another tool beyond an avalanche and weather forecast.

But, webcams are usually a static snapshot of the current time, you often can’t look at historical images, and finding reliable webcams can be hit or miss. 

Here’s a solution to all that. Portland-based geographic data wiz Ben Stabley has a streamlined website for viewing time lapse images of major mountains - mtcams.net.

His website works great on a mobile device as well as a desktop computer. You can see webcam images of Hood, Three Sisters, Rainier, Baker, Shasta, Whitney, Grand Teton, Mont Blanc, Fuji, and the Eiger. (Other major but more remote peaks are not included because they generally lack good quality webcams.)

The website is pretty intuitive, you can click around for a minute or so and figure it out. Here's a step-by-step.

• Choose the mountain you want to see.

• Choose “From” and “To” dates.

• Press “Load Photos”.

• This brings up three tabs, the middle one is “Time Lapse.” Choose from one frame per second up to 30 frames per second. You’ll then see a time lapse image of webcam photos of that peak for your chosen date period.

Notice that the webcam interval is different depending on the mountain. For example, the Mt. Hood camera grabs an image every five minutes, while the Mt. Fuji camera grabs one image per hour. So experiment with the “frame per second” option until you find a time lapse that looks helpful. 

It's also fun to go farther back in time rather than just the last few days. Wondering what the snowpack was like on Mt. Rainier in late July three years ago? You can do that. (Note: imagery starts in 2017, so nothing before that.)

Where can I find GPX tracks for hiking trails?

As we like to say at Alpinesavvy, having a map is great, but having a map with your route printed on it is even better. And, having that route on your phone with a quality GPS app like Gaia GPS is another plus.

Knowing your route usually starts with a GPX file, which is a standardized format for sharing geographic data. A GPX track file is a simply a text file with a long string of latitude and longitude coordinates (and sometimes time and elevation), and a line drawn between them. This shows a hiking or climbing route that someone has recorded in the field or (hopefully) carefully drawn in mapping software. (If you can't find what you want, you can draw in your own route in mapping software like our favorite, Caltopo.)

Why do you want a GPX file? If you have a GPX file, you can print a PDF map of your route in CalTopo, which looks something like this (Hamilton Mountain, Columbia River Gorge)

Or, you can download it to Gaia GPS or your preferred GPS app/device, so you can use it for navigation in the field, here's a screen grab of that (Hamilton Mountain, Columbia River Gorge):

Historically, it's been quite difficult to find a consistent, quality source of GPX tracks for hikes and climbs, but that’s changed for the better in the last few years.

Here are two good websites where you can download free GPX files for hiking trails - GaiaGPS and AllTrails.

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Hiking - GaiaGPS.com

Gaia GPS is my favorite backcountry navigation phone app. In addition, the GaiaGPS.com website has steadily improved and it’s now is a solid place to locate hike track files, provided you know where to look. Plus, if you already use their app, a big timesaver is that you can save a hike description or hiking track directly onto your phone with one click.

Note: You need to have an account at GaiaGPS.com for this to work, and the below examples are shown on the desktop website, not on the app. (The app has some pretty good built-in hike finders as well, but we're not covering that today.)

Here's how to do it.

Click “Hikes” from the top menu bar.

Search for the name of the hike you want, or use the map finder to zoom into your area of interest. (The search function can be a little hit or miss; it can help to type in the state you're looking for so you don't get results from all over the world.)

Once you find the hike you want, give it a click. The easiest way to save both the track and a lot of info about that hike is to click the big green “Save Hike” button at the top right corner. This saves pretty much that entire webpage on your phone, with distance, elevation gain, recent trip reports, and of course a base map with the GPX file.

On your phone, this is saved under the “Saved > Hikes” icon along the bottom of your screen.

Also helpful: along the bottom are icons for “Copy Link” and “Share”, which lets you send that webpage easily to your other hiking buddies. (From what I can tell, it's pretty much the same as a copy paste of the web address.)

If you want to see other Gaia users’ uploaded tracks of the same area, which might show some detours or other areas of interest off of the main hike, you can do that too. Scroll down the page a bit, until you come to “Public Tracks”. This shows a link, and often a bit of a trip report. If you click on any one of these links, it will open that person’s track in a new window, and you can download it if you want.

And, a whole other way to look at these data is to use the Gaia “Public Tracks” overlay, which shows the recorded tracks of everyone who has shared a hike in that location. We cover how to do that at this tip.

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Often it takes a few minutes before Gaia GPS can synchronize with your phone. If you download the hike or GPX file to your GaiaGPS.com account, and it's not showing up on your phone, You can force the synchronizing to happen like this: Go to the Gaia app, Settings, and toggle the “Sync/Backup” button, shown below.

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Hiking - Alltrails

Alltrails is another good choice for day hikers to find quality GPX files. The website has a clean interface, and lots of functionality even on the free version.

To find a GPX track, zoom into your area of interest and choose the hike you want, here Hamilton Mountain in the Columbia River Gorge. Tap the “More” link on the left side. From this drop-down menu, select “Download Route” to save the GPX file onto your computer.

Once you have that GPX file on your hard drive, you can import it to Caltopo and print a map or save as a Google Earth friendly KML file, upload it to your guy GPS account to put onto your phone, or share it with your hiking partners.

Where can I find GPX tracks for climbing routes?

Thanks to my friend and Peakbagger.com expert Daniel Mick for assistance with this article.

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Disclaimer 1: A GPX track file shows an approximate route, not necessarily the best one for you to take based on current conditions. Mountain landscapes, especially snowfields and glaciers, can change on a daily basis. A track recorded on a dry summer day might be not show the best route when wet or snow-covered. Carefully preview the route on a map before you leave home. Don’t blindly follow a GPS track In the field if it doesn't make sense. Any GPX file you download from the Internet can be suspect.

Disclaimer 2: Do not rely on a GPX track file to show you the way on technical climbing routes. If you're at the base of the third pitch and you're wondering if you should take the left crack or the right crack, your GPS is not going to help. Due to you moving slowly and that the GPS signal can bounce around on a vertical cliff, the accuracy is just not there. So, you can use it for the approach hike, but not on vertical terrain

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As we like to say at Alpinesavvy, having a map is great, but having a map with your route printed on it is even better. And, having that route on your phone with a quality GPS app like Gaia GPS is another plus.

Knowing your route usually starts with a GPX file, which is a standardized format for sharing geographic data. A GPX track file is a simply a text file with a long string of latitude and longitude coordinates (and sometimes time and elevation), and a line drawn between them. This shows a hiking or climbing route that someone has recorded in the field or (hopefully) carefully drawn in mapping software. (If you can't find what you want, you can draw in your own route in mapping software like our favorite, Caltopo.)

Once you have a GPX track, you can print a PDF map of your route in Caltopo, which looks something like this (Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver route):

Or, you can download the track to Gaia GPS or your preferred GPS app/device, so you can use it for navigation in the field. Here's a screen grab of that (Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver route):

Historically, it's been quite difficult to find a consistent, quality source of GPX tracks for hikes and climbs, but that’s changed for the better in the last few years.

Of course, right here on Alpine Savvy we have a curated collection of more than 70 GPS tracks of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. So, If you want to climb one of these more common routes, that’s a great place to look first. But, if you can't find it there, check out Peakbagger.

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Peakbagger.com is a great place to find quality GPX tracks for climbing routes.

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If you're after more technical mountaineering/scrambling routes, I have yet to find any better source for GPX tracks than Peakbagger. Yes, the website looks like it was designed in 1996, but don't let that stop you, there's some amazing functionality once you drill down.

Peakbagger is arguably the best one-stop-shop for mountaineering information, with trip reports and GPS tracks, heaps of links to weather, maps (CalTopo, Google, Bing, etc.), and other mountaineering websites (SummitPost, Peakfinder, books on Amazon). Plus, it’s a compendium of global bucket lists of every variety and flavor (elevation, prominence, state/country, county high point, etc.

But for our purposes, we're only interested in finding GPS tracks. Here's how to do it. (When you first look through these instructions, they might seem long and complicated. Trust me, they're not, once you get the hang of this you can work through it in a minute or two.)

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For this example, let's say we want a GPX track of the North Ridge route on Mt. Baker. To start with, type in a keyword from your peak name in the “Quick Search” box in the top right corner.

Depending on your search term, you might get a lot of answers. Check that the location and elevation is for the peak you want. Click the “Name” link in the second column when you find the right one. Here, it happens to be the first choice.

Scroll down toward the bottom of the page. Under the section “Ascent Info”, click “Show all viewable ascents/attempts”. For more obscure mountains you might get just a handful; Baker has over 1,200!

This brings up a spreadsheet format of all of the recorded climbs. (For mountains with fewer reports, you might see a spreadsheet that shows all of the climbs without separate years. Here for Mt. Baker, with thousands of reports, they are broken down by specific years.) We want to see everything, so click “All”.

Just like a spreadsheet, if you click on the column names, it sorts them alphabetically. Click on “GPS”. This shows only the trip reports that have a GPS file. Excellent, out of more than 1,200 trip reports, we just narrowed it down to only a few dozen that have a GPS track. (You‘ll see many climbers do not name their route, not useful! Peakbagger users, please be helpful to everyone else by at least naming your route and better yet, contributing a GPS track.)

Under the “Route” column, look for your route, in this case, North Ridge. (If you can't find the route listed, but you do see a GPS link, you might need to click that link and look at a preview map to see if it's the one you need. In this case we have a half dozen examples of the North Ridge, so we don't need to do that.)

Right click on the “Ascent Date” in the first column that has a GPS link for your route, and choose “Open link in new browser tab” so you can have a look at the actual GPS tracks.

Another useful aspect of Peakbagger is the “Ascent Date” column. Some routes can change significantly whether it’s snow covered or not. If you have the choice, you probably want to look at a route that’s from about the same time of year that you intend to go.

Here we finally see something pretty useful: a GPX track of our route drawn on a map. Have a look at a few tracks drawn on the preview map, they should all look pretty much the same. (Of course, routes on glaciers and snow fields can change a lot from season to season.)

If the route looks good, click the link under the map, “Download this GPS track as a GPX file.”

Done!

Tip: there's no rule that says you only have to download one track. In some cases with tricky route finding, you might find that having several different tracks on your phone or map can be helpful. In Gaia GPS, you can toggle the visibility of different tracks on or off if you find they’re getting distracting.

Below is a screen grab from Caltopo, with three different tracks on it for the North Ridge route on Mt. Baker. You can see that there is quite a bit of variability in the approach, which you would expect on a glacier with changing conditions. Also, when you get up near the summit, there appears to be a couple of different options as well.

Also note that the recorded tracks on the ascent vary a lot from the “North Ridge Route” line drawn on the map! As cartographers like to say, “the map is not the territory”, meaning the real world is what you should follow, not necessarily a line on a map. Yet another reminder that routes on glaciers can change a lot!

A slick carabiner rappel brake

Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. If you do them wrong, you could die. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation.

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If you forget your rappel device, drop it (whoops), or maybe you’re on a really long alpine climb with just a short rappel and don't even want to bring one to save weight (Mt. Olympus, I'm looking at you) the somewhat old-school technique of a carabiner brake can offer a smooth rappel with gear you already have.

Now, before you roll your eyes about this being an old-timer technique from Freedom of the Hills version 2.0, (when harnesses were made from braided blackberry vines and Mt. St. Helens was a real mountain), stay with me. This method has a place in your tool kit, and uses just three lockers.

What are some other options if you or your partner drops your rappel device?

• You can rap with a Munter hitch and a single carabiner. But, it’s probably going to twist the hell out of your rope unless you use the correct technique.

• Your partner can lower you, probably directly off the anchor. Learn lots of ways to do this at this article.

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Safety note 1: There is a remote chance that the rope might unscrew a carabiner gate, so please keep an eye on this. In the example below, I’m using two auto locking carabiners to lessen the chances of this happening. Like I said, this is not a common-practice set up, more of an emergency kind of a thing.

Safety note 2: The friction with this technique will probably be less than using a standard rappel device. Maybe a LOT less. It depends on variables like your weight, the diameter of your rope and whether it's old and crusty or new and slick. Always use a third hand autoblock backup, and gloves are a fine idea also. Because of this diminished friction, it's probably best to use this technique in less than vertical terrain. Practice it in a controlled environment like a staircase to get a sense of how fast your rap is before you try in the real world.

• You can generate slightly more friction by rotating the carabiners so the small ends are together.

• This can be a fine place to use a locker draw to slightly extend your rappel.

• If you don't have three locking carabiners, you can use two regular ones, opposite and opposed, on the bottom, clipped to your belay loop.

• As with other flavors of carabiner brake rappels, when you remove your rope, it's really easy to drop a carabiner, because at least one of them is not attached, in this case the top one with the orange sleeve. So watch this when you take it apart.

• If you're really short on gear, you can do this with two carabiners instead of three. The third carabiner is mostly to prevent the rope from rubbing on your harness or rappel extension. If you decide to use only two carabiners, keep a close eye on your rope.

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Here’s how to rig it.

A rappel extension is not required for this carabiner brake, but it's good practice to use one, so we're showing it. And, as mentioned above, using a third hand /autoblock backup is usually good practice, but it's not shown here for clarity.

For a rappel extension, here we’re using a double bowline tied through the belay loop. (This is a crafty yet unconventional way to make a rappel extension, which we're going to cover in another tip soon.) You don't have to do it this way, use whatever kind of extension you like Yes, this sling is tied through the belay loop. There is no problem attaching your tether to your belay loop, it’s plenty strong, but if you prefer to go through your tie in points, then go for it.

1 - Clip a locking carabiner to your rappel extension.

2 - Clip a second locking carabiner to the first one.

3 - Pass a bight of both rappel rope strands through the second carabiner.

4 - Clip a third locking carabiner to these two strands of rope, and then . . .

Clip that third carabiner onto the strands going to the anchor. Check that ALL carabiners are locked.

Under load, it looks like this:

And finally, here’s a short Instagram video from Guide Cody Bradford showing how it's done.

"Locker draw" - What is it, why carry it?

A “locker draw” is simply a short quick draw style runner, a.k.a. “dogbone”, with locking carabiners on either end. Some people may dismiss a locker draw as something that overly cautious sport climbers may use on a top rope anchor, but they have many more uses.

You don’t buy these premade like a normal quick draw, you need to buy the dogbone and locking carabiners separately. A good combination is to have two sizes of locking carabiners: one D shaped, and a compact pear-shaped HMS style, as shown below. (The CAMP “Nimbus” carabiner on the left, is perfect for this.)

Tip: Put the HMS carabiner in the small constricted end of the dogbone, and put the D shaped carabiner (here, orange) in the top loose end of the dogbone. Use the orange carabiner to clip the gear, the HMS carabiner to clip the rope.

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Here are some ways to use a locker draw.

1) Bolted top rope anchor. A normal multi pitch anchor doesn’t require locking carabiners on the bolts. But a top rope anchor, which may be unattended throughout the day and have many people climbing on it, may benefit from having at least one locker draw. We cover toprope locker draws at this post.

Below is a typical set up, with one locker draw and one standard quick draw. Bottom gates are opposite and opposed.

Here are two extra long (25 cm) Petzl Express draws, which can be helpful if the bolts are far apart. Here we have lockers on everything. Some people may consider this overkill, but if you're in an instructional type setting, with many climbers all day using a single top rope, having lockers on all four points may give extra peace of mind. This can be especially true with kids or beginners.

It's debatable if two locker draws offer much more security than one. But if you have them and it makes you feel good to use them, why not? There's really not much downside.

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2) Rappel extension. Extending your rappel device so it’s not directly on your belay loop is a good idea for many reasons, which we cover in this tip. There are lots of different ways to rig it, and one quick and easy one is with your locker draw.

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3) Extending your tie in / belay point; declustering your anchor. When you a master point at one level, connecting both yourself and belaying your partner from that one point can be awkward. A locker draw can extend the tie in or the belay carabiners. This can make the belay more convenient and less awkward, depending on your stance.

Example: Standard anchor on a mini quad (180 cm runner). Nothing wrong with this set up. But depending on the stance, the leader’s clove hitch tie in point on the left and the belay carabiner on the right might be annoyingly close together.

Here, a locker draw is added for the leader’s tie in. This moves their connection point lower, making the anchor less cluttered at a single point.

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4) Using it as a regular quickdraw before a hard move, before a big run out, or right off the belay as the first clip, to pump up the psyche.

If you find yourself doing this on a regular basis, you may want to invest in a pair of Edelrid HMS Strike Slider carabiners. These have a clever locking mechanism that is very easy to open with one hand, and can work better for making fast clips.

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6) Rig a toprope with the rope through the chains to make it easy for a beginner to clean, but so the wear‘n’tear happens on your own gear, not the fixed hardware. (A regular carabiner can work fine here as well.)

And here's another way to set up a similar type of anchor, this time with vertically oriented chains and a locker draw. Note, the rope is going through the brown colored ring master point on the bottom, but all of the load from the climber is resting on your own quick draw. This is a great system, because you have complete redundancy from both bolts and also super easy cleaning; the last person just removes the quick draw and lowers off.

Photo: IFMGA Certified Guide Dale Remsburg @daleremsberg

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7) Ice thread backup. If you make an ice thread anchor for a rappel, you can place a screw(s) above it and clip a locker draw to the rope as a backup for the first person(s) down. The last person cleans the draw and the screw after the thread has proven it holds. Be sure that all of the weight is on the ice thread, with no force on the locker draw.

photo: Dale Remsberg - https://www.instagram.com/p/Bsx7X6ZhcpA/

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8) Winter climbing device attachment. No photo for this one but you can get the idea: Use it to extend your belay device farther away from your harness if you're wearing lots of thick winter clothing. This makes it easier to connect the belay device properly because you can see it more easily.

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9) Always gives you two extra locking carabiners for any kind of rescue situation. If you've ever practiced any sort of rock rescue, about 30 seconds into any scenario, you're going to wish you had a few extra lockers. If you carry a locker draw, that gives you two lockers when you need them.

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10) As a directional placement for ice or rock toproping. In many toprope setups, especially for ice, having a directional placement as shown below is a good idea. Using a locker draw here gives more security than a standard quick draw.

image credit: Sean isaac

The DMM Pivot - a better belay device?

Plaquette style belay devices allow a leader to belay the second directly off of the anchor, and have the device lock up in the event of a fall. This has become the modern standard belay method, provided your anchor is stout. The Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are the most popular such devices, but pretty much every major manufacturer has their own flavor.

However, one of the minor headaches of using these devices is that it can be tricky to lower your second, especially if they are free hanging on the rope (admittedly an unlikely situation).

(If they are able to slightly unweight the rope, giving you just a few inches of slack for a second or two, you can easily lower your second using the Load Strand Direct, or ”LSD” method, which we cover in this tip here. This is a crafty rope trick every climber should know.)

But, in some unusual situations, your second might have fallen below an overhang, perhaps be injured, or for whatever reason not be able to give you a little bit of slack. In this situation, most of the standard belay devices lock up completely, and unlocking them and lowering your second in a controlled manner, known in some circles as “defeating the plaquette,” usually requires some clever tricks with a sling, Munter hitch, and some other other shenanigans that if done incorrectly, can cause you to drop your climber. Yes, it has happened.

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To quote Bruce Lee, “The best fight is the one you never have.” Meaning, if you can avoid even trying to defeat the plaquette, with rope shenanigans that might result in a bad outcome, that’s usually the better approach.  

Well, fortunately good design has caught up with belay devices. The DMM Pivot is an innovative device that allows you to easily lower a second, even if the rope is under full load. 

The connection point to the anchor is a U-shaped bit of metal on a sort of hinge. This hinge allows the device to rotate. So, to lower your second, you simply clip a small-nosed carabiner, nut tool or redirected sling to the “ear” of the belay device, give it a tiny bit of upward pull, and easily lower your second in a controlled way. (It's still best practice to have a third hand/autoblock friction knot on the brake strand when you do this.)

This process is significantly trickier with the Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide. 

Given that the DMM Pivot costs about the same and offers better functionality, to me it’s a great choice if you’re looking to upgrade your belay device.

(Some people complain the Pivot heavy, but it’s really not.  A Pivot weighs 72 grams, Petzl Reverso weighs 57 grams. If 12 grams are keeping you from sending your project, you should probably do a little more strength training and not stress out about your belay device weighing you down.)

Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide)

And like most climbing techniques, it's a better show than to tell. Here's a video that shows how to use the DMM Pivot. Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works.

Use GaiaGPS public tracks to find GPS tracks

As we like to say at AlpineSavvy, “A map is great, but a map with your route drawn on it is even better.” That usually means getting a GPS track of where you want to go.

Trying an initial search on websites such as peakbagger.com (climbing) or alltrails.com (hiking)is a great place to start. But, if those sites don't give you a track file, here's another trick to try - the publicly posted tracks at GaiaGPS.com.

This is a bit of a hack to find GPS tracks for a hike or climb. It's not the most reliable, and not guaranteed to give you what you’re looking for. But if other avenues don’t work, this is an alternative.

Note: You need to know pretty much where your route goes, and also be aware that being publicly posted is no guarantee of the quality of the track. The person posting may have done it in a different season then you want to try your climb. They may have tried a different approach than what you intend.

Note: Gaia can sometimes be a good source for those scramble/half trail routes that are not a common hiking trail but are also not necessarily mountaineering objectives either. Think high routes like the Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades, the round Mt. Adams trail, the popular through hike of the Alpine Lakes wilderness in central Washington, routes like that.

Disclaimer: Before you use ANY track file you find on the Internet, always know that it provides a general guidance of where to go, and is not a step-by-step route which you need to follow. This is especially true on snow/glacier climbs, as in the example below.

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Here's how to find the public tracks at GaiaGPS.com.

In a distant corner of the GaiaGPS.com website is a map overlay called “Public Tracks”. If you turn this on, you should see all of the publicly available tracks people have uploaded to Gaia GPS in your area. If you're going on a reasonably popular hike, scramble or climb, one of these might well be the track you need.

Another benefit from using the public tracks overlay as you can see where people are actually going, which might show a rerouted trail that's marked incorrectly on the map.

Note: you need to have an account at Gaia GPS for this to work.

For this example, let's look for a track for the North Ridge of Mt. Baker climbing route in Washington.

Go to GaiaGPS.com, login to your account, and tap on the “map layer” icon on the left side of the screen.

In this example I'm using the “OpenCycleMap HD” layer, which shows backcountry trails and topography pretty well. Feel free to choose any map layer you like. Zoom in to your area of interest; here Mt. Baker.

On the left sidebar under “Layers”, scroll all the way to the bottom. In the “Overlays” section, you should see a checkbox for “Public Tracks.” Check this box.

Once you check the box, all of the public tracks for your chosen area should appear on your screen. (These are all tracks that that backcountry users have saved to GaiaGPS and given permission to share publicly.)

Yep, there may be a LOT! Or maybe none at all, if your objective is not very popular. See even more if you zoom in.

If you see a lot of different colors drawn over pretty much the same route, that's a pretty good indication that’s where you want to go too.

If you know where your route goes, start clicking on some of the colored lines near your route. A label should pop up, and you may well find the track you're looking for, as seen below.

If you click the title link in the pop up box, that should open up another page where you can see just that track, and download it.

Clicking the track link brings up a page of just that track. Hey, looks pretty good, might be able to use that one! Click the “Data” menu to download the file to your account, GPX file recommended. If it's downloaded onto your desktop account, it should auto-magically synchronize with your phone in a minute or two.

The "double top rope quad" anchor

This tip and video come from AMGA Certified Rock Guide Cody Bradford.

While sadly Cody is no longer with us, his Instagram continues to stay up and is a great source of tips like this, check it out.

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Say you’re toproping with a few friends on two adjacent routes that share one common anchor. It can be a challenge to set this up so you have two separate master points, while minimizing anchor cluster. 

There are various ways to rig this, but here’s one that’s exceptionally simple and clean. Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. 

Your quad anchor could be a large length of cord (usually 7mm) tied in a big loop cordelette style, or the new school “mini quad” typically made with a 180 cm runner, as we cover in this tip here.

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To make the master points, you can use two lockers, or one locker and one snapgate. Both are fine. The choice depends on the gear you have available and your general level of acceptable risk.

Is this example “overbuilt”? Maybe. Do you have to have locking carabiners all the way around. No. But hey, if you're out climbing with several people, I bet you can come up with six lockers! To me, it's sort of like looking both ways before you cross a one-way street. Technically you shouldn't have to do it, but in reality, there's no downside to doing it, and it may give you a warm fuzzy feeling. On this website and my Instagram, I am generally going to show the most conservative approach.

No one should “safety shame” you if you decide use all lockers. (Remember, YOU are responsible for your safety and level of acceptable risk; don't let other people's opinion or what you read on the inter-web dictate that for you.)

At a top rope anchor, the anchor is “unattended” - you’re not there to monitor the rigging maybe for hours at a time with perhaps many people using it. Given this, most folks use an anchor set up that is a little more secure (i.e., more lockers) than they might for a lead belay anchor, even though the potential forces involved in top roping are much less.

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Safety note: It's best to use this set up on adjacent routes, and not to have two people climb the same route at the same time on different ropes. If you were to do this, you might have a situation where one loaded rope could be running over the other rope, not good. Clipping the rope through the top bolt or piece of gear on each route as a directional can help ensure the ropes stay away from each other.